Lawn Lad Landscaper

How to plant spring flowering bulbs

2011-09-28T13:01:00.003-04:00

There is nothing quite like a flush of color in the spring to wash away the winter blues. Installing bulbs this fall is a great way to usher in spring next season.

You can either hire a profession to install your bulbs or you can do it yourself. In either case, installing bulbs is a fairly inexpensive way to create great color and interest in the garden. Plan the areas where you would like color. Daffodils work well in naturalized areas such as in ground cover and ornamental beds. Daffodils will come back each year and have pretty good staying power in the garden compared with some other types of bulbs. Flowering early on in spring (late March to mid April) daffodils can fill in empty areas of the garden with bursts of yellow color. Plant groupings or masses of daffodils to create a more naturalized appearance.

After years of planting bulbs we have found that easier is better. The text book methods of digging larger holes and planting groupings of bulbs will produce adequate results, but for the additional time to dig out the holes and add fertilizer, bone meal and soil amendments, we find that simply using an auger to drill holes and pop in the bulbs is just about if not more effective.

When planting tulips we prefer a different approach. We find that tulips don't have the longevity in the garden. After the first year of flowing many tulips don't come back, either because they are consumed by hungry rodents or rot in the beds. We therefore have treated tulips like annual flowers. We plant tulips in high profile bed areas that are typically filled with summer annuals and when they're done flowering we pull the whole plant and bulb. By the time the tulip is done blooming in mid May, waiting for the nutrients to return the bulb so you can pluck the stem/stalk from the bulb takes up to a month or more, which means you're left looking at stalks until sometimes mid June before you can empty out the bed and plant other flowers. And then you're not even sure if you'll get results from the bulb the following year. The relatively low cost of the tulip bulbs makes adding tulips a relatively inexpensive project.

Step One: Prepare the planting bed by removing summer annuals and weeds. Rake and lightly grade the bed to ensure a consistent grade. Edge the bed if necessary.

Step Two: Layout where the tulips will be planted. Auger/drill the holes to a depth of 5" to 6". We typically will plant tulips approximately 8" to 10" apart. The density of the planting will depend on how full you want the bed to look in the spring. Figure 100 bulbs will cover about 60 to 70 square feet of bed area with 6" to 8" centers.

Step Three: Install one bulb per hole. Place at the bottom of the hole. While the text books say to play the flat part down and the pointy side up, we've experimented and found that Mother Nature prevails and the bulb will still come up regardless of how you insert the bulb in the hole. So we feel better we follow the text book instructions on this part of the installation. (I think we can still hear our mother's reminding us to follow directions!).

Planting daffodils is very similar, drill one hole per bulb, but group in masses of 5 to 10 bulbs per mass approximately 8" to 12" apart. Plant daffodils in ground cover beds and mulched ornamental beds. Because you'll leave the daffodils from one year to the next, plant them in beds that are not high profile where you can allow the leaves of the daffodils to dry out before cutting them back to the ground in mid-June.

Step Four: Rake over the bed and back fill the holes. It is not necessary to press the soil into the holes or do anything special.

Helpful tip: If the soil in the beds and lawn area are overly moist, lay down strips of plywood

(1/2" plywood cut to 12" wide strips) to prevent rounding of the bed edges or creating muddy areas from all of the moving around you will be doing.

You can buy bulbs from local garden centers or catalog companies. I prefer to buy from wholesale catalog companies because we know the bulbs have been stored properly and are more likely to be successful compared with home center stores and some garden centers. Bulb suppliers will run out of certain varieties early, so order your bulbs by early October for the best availability.

Preparing your yard for fall

2011-09-28T11:48:00.000-04:00

Cooling temperatures and rainy days signal that fall is here and it's that time again where we need to begin winding things down while the weather is still favorable.

Although the month isn't quite over, this September we have had 7.29" of rain, more than double the 3.44" Cleveland normally receives. While this has been good weather for rehabilitating lawns that did not fair well from the spring and summer weather, our garden beds are saturated from all the rain. Be cautious about over watering plants this time of year, but don't put away your hoses just yet. A dry October may rob plants of needed moisture before winter - so wait another four to six weeks before putting away the hoses because we may still need them yet.

In the coming few weeks you can take advantage of the good weather days to accomplish the following:

Finish final maintenance trimming and pruning of plants by October 15th.
Prune plants now for clearance along driveways, walks and buildings or to remove any damaged or diseased plant parts. Hold off on major trimming/pruning until late winter and early spring.
Remove leaves and sticks from garden beds, lawns and other areas of the yard as we go through fall
Remove summer annuals when they begin to die back from cooler temperatures
Replace summer flowers with new fall annual color - mums, cabbage and kale will last 6 to 8 weeks
Plant spring flowering bulbs before the ground freezes
Cut down perennials after several killing frosts
Determine which perennials need to be divided now, remove unwanted plants from the garden
Apply fertilizer to the lawn before the end of October
Aerate the lawn to improve root development and to help dry the lawn out
Spot seed thin or bare areas
Inspect outdoor lighting, replace bulbs as needed. Adjust timer as necessary.
Prepare firewood for the winter season

Good sanitation is important to maintaining a healthy landscape. By cleaning up leaves and dead plant parts you will minimize the potential for recurring disease issues. A clean landscape also minimizes places that rodents and other pests can hide.

Here is a printable version of our year long calendar check list for your yard and garden.

Do I have creeping bentgrass in my lawn?

2011-09-24T15:40:00.000-04:00

Creeping bent grass is a common cool season turf type that is commonly found in the greater Heights area and beyond. Its is very common to find creeping bentgrass in lawns unless they have been removed and replaced with a mixture of bluegrass, perennial rye and/or fescues.

Creeping bentgrass has a different growing habit than the other commonly found cool season turf types - bluegrass, perennial rye and fescues. The upright growth habit of the blue/rye/fescue types make them easy to distinguish compared to the low, creeping and spreading habit of creeping bentgrass.

Creeping bentgrass can be readily identified in early
morning hours when dew is still on the grass.

It is easy to identify creeping bentgrass in the home lawn by looking for a few different indicators. Creeping bentgrass is typically a lighter shade of green compared with blue/rye/fescue which tends to have a deeper/richer blue-green color.

Creeping bentgrass lays over, it does not grow upright like the blue/rye/fescue types. During ht early morning hours when there is still dew on the lawn, there is a more dramatic difference in the appearance of the lawn. The picture to the left shows dew sitting on top of the more horizontal blades of the creeping bentgrass thus making it more obvious.  As the moisture evaporates the difference between the turf types may not be as obvious to the untrained eye. Because creeping bentgrass lays over and has above ground tillers/runners (called stolons), it will create a thick spongy mat in the lawn.

Creeping bentgrass can be a very nice type of grass when used as a singular turf type in a lawn and managed properly. It is desirable because it will handle some shade and also recuperates well from stress. The moisture, fertility and maintenance requirements for creeping bentgrass in addition to disease susceptibility make it a less desirable turf type than other cool season turf types. The cost to properly maintain creeping bentgrass, which is used in golf courses and professionally managed for best results, often makes creeping bentgrass a undesirable turf type.  It is often considered a weed in a blue/rye/fescue lawn like in the picture above.

Often home owners have to "manage to the middle" when they have creeping bentgrass in their blue/rye/fescue lawn. Eventually the creeping bentgrass will spread and take over a larger portion of the lawn if not kept in check. The only effective way to remove creeping bentgrass from the lawn requires spraying it with a non-selective herbicide (i.e. Round-up), then removing it from the lawn and reseeding the area. If removal is not a desirable option, then the owner must manage the lawn to keep both the creeping bentgrass happy as well as blue/rye/fescue mixtures - hence managing to the middle. In the final analysis it will be challenging to manage a consistently green, lush and healthy appearing lawn from season to season due to the different needs and maintenance requirements of the turf types.

Watering new grass seed

2011-09-12T14:26:00.002-04:00

Over the years we have installed many lawns and renovated even more, we've seen and experienced both successful and not so successful seeding projects. What we do know to be true is that effective water management is the key to getting new seed to germinate. Too much, not enough or too late are all common problems. Getting the right amount of water when the lawn needs it is essential to the success of the lawn establishment process.

Grass seed may be installed into an existing or new lawn. A new lawn is when we remove the old lawn completely, add soil, grade and hydro-seed to create an entirely new lawn. A lawn renovation is a series of lawn care related services which will improve the health of the existing lawn, and this often includes over seeding the lawn to fill in thin or bare areas. In either case, new grass seed is introduced into the lawn and now must fill in.

An irrigation system is a helpful tool to have in getting a new lawn established. However, be careful not to rely on it as if it's autopilot setting. We often see over watering issues when an irrigation system is not managed properly and the owner does not make adjustments to account for the effects of weather or site conditions.

More detailed watering instructions can be found here, which includes information about the first days of care through the first year.

Watering Instructions for a fall seeded new or renovated lawn:

The first few days and weeks are critical to getting your lawn established. It’s important to water daily (morning is preferable to late day). Water for 10-15 minutes with an oscillating sprinkler, but not to the point where there are puddles. It is imperative to not saturate the soil, so focus on frequent yet light watering. You should be able to gage the soil moisture by walking on the lawn without sinking into it. Check soil moisture to see if shorter or longer time is necessary based on weather and site conditions.

Newly seeded lawns require careful nurturing to ensure
successful establishment. Over or under watering can
dimminish the desired results.

With the new seed you’ll need to water daily for the next few weeks, at which time you will begin to water less frequently but for longer periods of time. You can skip watering in the morning when we have had rain in the overnight. Do not skip watering even with rain in the forecast – as the weather forecast is not always accurate and forecasted rain fall amounts may not be sufficient. Please minimize the use of the lawn as much as possible during the establishment of the new grass.

Watering for spring seeded or summer seeded lawns will vary slightly. The principal of keeping the seed moist remains the same, but you may need to water more or less frequently depending on the weather. Establishing seed during hot periods of weather is risky - going for an extended period of time without moistening the germinated seed may put it at risk of drying out and dying as result. Remember, too little water is just as bad as too much water. Find the balance by checking moisture regularly and adjusting the watering accordingly.

When Mother Nature conspires against your lawn and garden

2011-09-04T13:33:00.001-04:00

What a summer Cleveland has experienced. With cooler temperatures signaling that fall is around the corner, our yards and gardens have an opportunity to recover from the stresses of this past season.

April was the wettest April on record with more than twice the normal rain fall. May turned out to be the second wettest May on record. Cleveland normally receives approximately 6.87” of rain in April and May – but instead we had 14.63” – 212% over normal. With such wet weather the root systems in our lawns and garden plants could not become sturdy before summer heat. In April and May there were 37 days with rain, homeowners and landscape and lawn care companies alike struggled to keep up with normal yard and garden maintenance activities.

June didn’t really do us any favors. The wet spring resulted in weaker lawns – and then the soil dried up rapidly as we received less than normal rain fall for June. The soil in our gardens and lawns cannot store up the extra moisture, so the weaker root systems in our lawns struggled to provide enough water to suffering turf grass plants that began to wilt with the lack of moisture. Most homeowners were not watering their lawns because they were remembering how wet it was just weeks prior – and logically it would seem that watering was not necessary. Lawns became more stressed.

July was the last nail in the coffin for many lawns that were already weak and under performing. July was both the second warmest July on record, but it was also the fourth wettest on record with more than twice the normal rain fall (7.47” of rainfall versus normal of 3.52”). While common sense would tell us that moisture is good when it is abnormally hot – July actually suffered from ineffective rain falls. There were a total of nine days of precipitation – including a record setting 3.65” of rain on July 18th. When rain falls so rapidly it runs off the lawn and garden and does not get absorbed into the soil. Soil remained fairly dry below the surface despite the record rain falls. Top it off with nine days with temperatures above 90 degrees and lawns began to show real signs of stress. Crabgrass and broad leaf weeds filled in the voids where weaker lawns thinned out and lawn care companies struggled to keep up with weeds that were so prevalent. If it wasn’t raining it was too hot to spray weeds.

Lawns with poor root systems became stressed this summer
and will require renovation work to recover this fall.

August was only slightly more moderate –but still remained relatively warm. Another record setting 3.51” of rain fell on August 14th, which is the normal rain fall for the month of August. When an entire month’s rain fall arrives in one day – there is little benefit for plants. Fortunately by the end of August temperatures cooled and moisture returned allowing for desirable lawn growing conditions.

What lessons can be learned from a year with such extreme weather? Focus lawn care efforts on building the root system of your lawn which requires focusing on soil health. Healthy lawns with strong root systems rebounded in late August. Lawns that became thin or weak experienced more weeds, have brown and dead patches and require seeding and renovation work this fall.

Click here to find out more about lawn renovations.

Imprelis and the continuing fall out

2011-09-01T12:53:00.002-04:00

The Imprelis herbicide has been national news this year. A new weed control product released by DuPont this past spring showed great promise in managing difficult to control weeds with lower amounts of herbicide. However, after trees began showing signs of damage and dying off this spring it appeared that Imprelis was the culprit.

It is important to know that Lawn Lad never purchased or used Imprelis in our operations. While we are always looking for and testing new processes and products to use in our operations to provide the best possible results - we are reluctant to be the first to test new products for this very reason. You can rest assured that we did not spray this product on your property.

For more information about Imprelis here is an article from the Ohio State University Extension newsletter - The Buckeye Yard & Garden Line from September 1, 2011.

IMPRELIS UPDATE. An ongoing saga this year is a self-inflicted wound, an iatrogenic agent, so to speak, that has affected every corner of the green industry and their customers. An "iatrogenic agent", borrowed from medical terminology, is something which intended for positive use, ends up with a negative effect. The cure that creates another crime - a side effect. The case study we are all living this year is of Imprelis, a weed - killer, an herbicide developed by DuPont. This herbicide was used commercially for the first time this spring for a variety of turfgrass applications. It was widely touted as a low volume herbicide for broadleaved weeds, including many tough to control weeds such as violets. It was touted as being very effective for these weeds, AND it was! It was touted as having low environmental danger because it did not have the tendency to volatilize (turn into a gas during hot weather) and move off-site to unintended plants; the US EPA touted this as a plus. Many of the better-informed green industry companies, in good faith, with a labeled product, added Imprelis to their programs for this year.

Imprelis was indeed effective for these weeds. Unfortunately, unintended consequences did emerge. After initial applications in April, starting in late May and early June, lawn care companies and their customers, golf course professionals, and professionals taking care of turfgrass in commercial sites began noticing problems, not on the turfgrass (and weed control was excellent) but on certain adjacent trees. Most noticeably affected were evergreens such as Norway spruces, white pines, other needled conifers, and in some cases deciduous trees such as honeylocust.

There were comments on the Imprelis label about not applying the chemical on exposed roots of trees and of not using grass clippings from treated areas as mulch. However, for unanticipated reasons, off-site damage of certain trees occurred in a number of cases. Not always, in fact the vast majority of Imprelis applications resulted in no damage to adjacent trees. Trees do have extensive root systems, though, that as the tree grows, roots extend well beyond the dripline, and we did have many major storms with localized flooding, and it turns out that, though volatility of the chemical was low, root uptake appeared to be a major problem for certain trees.

So, for example on Norway spruce, we began to notice browning and curling of new shoots, browning and twisting of needles, sometimes browning of entire trees. Often there was still green tissue in the buds, so there was hope for recovery. The extent of damage varied greatly, sometimes occurring on some trees in a line but not all, even though clearly, as noted by weed control in the turfgrass, the application of the herbicide was uniform. The particular geography of the tree root system into the turf area was clearly a factor. The vascular (water and nutrient conducting) system of spruces and pines was a tip-off to the root uptake aspect of this problem. Unlike many plants, a spruce's vascular system ascends spirally up the tree, and when browning and twisting on a tree was not throughout, you could see the pattern of damage in a tell-tale spiral pattern, indicating root uptake.

As the problem emerged, the green industry, DuPont, regulatory agencies, the media and the general public have become more and more aware of this issue. Ultimately, Imprelis sales were suspended, and incredibly we are now even hearing the "b" word relative to damages, as in over a billion dollars in injury to Norway spruces and other plants nationwide. Litigation looms. We are now all looking at how this happened and the answers to questions that will allow us to learn from this episode. Was it a perfect storm of unanticipated movement of the chemical in runoff water due to the flooding caused by many major storms this spring? Can science better test prior to registration the potential for this happening? What is common about the growth processes and uptake potentials of the most sensitive tree species that resulted in such differential damage? What is the nature of this particular chemistry that made the industry vulnerable to this problem? How can we prove through residue analysis whether Imprelis damage caused problems on a particular tree? What is the prognosis for affected trees?

The tough truth is that it takes time to answer these questions, including one key bottom line of what to do now with affected trees. Clearly there is a range of injury to trees and many will recover. Others were badly affected and will not recover. Others will survive, but with the extent of damage may be "horticulturally dead" in that after pruning out damaged branches will no longer serve the ornamental or windbreak function desired by the customer. Getting rid of the chemical quickly in the soil is problematical. Early on, some companies tried to water extensively to try to leach the chemical out of the root zone. At least in some cases this resulted in greater damage as this presumably resulted in moving chemical to other roots. The chemical is not particularly short-lived. DuPont has advised not replanting into the site of a removed tree until October where Imprelis was applied prior to June of this year, not replanting until November if applications were made in June.

One thing is certain: communicate with affected customers and your connections in the green industry and with DuPont and insurers. Sustain that communication. Take pictures of the damage sequentially. Hone your diagnostic skills. Many cases of white pine weevil insect damage and Diplodia tip blight fungal disease and long-term root health problems on spruce and pine were misdiagnosed as Imprelis damage this season. Monitor plant development this fall and next spring as you consider whether or not trees must be pruned or replaced.

To learn more, here is one good reference for starters:

"A Turf Professional's Guide to Suspected Imprelis Herbicide Injury in Your Landscape"

What do farmers know that we ignore?

2011-08-26T12:01:00.000-04:00

When meeting with homeowners I often hear how frustrated they are with their lawns. They might be happy with their perennial or garden beds, but their lawn is just such a disappointment no matter the products they spread. The choice of installing a new lawn is always an option, but it’s expensive and often not a comfortable solution. What then is a homeowner to do?

I think it’s helpful to consider your home landscape like a farmer’s field. Consider what the farmer does in his fields that would also be useful for us to consider in our own lawns. When you consider that we rake all the leaves, clippings and other lawn debris to the curb for our local municipality to pick up and haul away to compost elsewhere (and sell back to us so we can topdress and mulch our gardens and flower beds) – our lawns have no organic matter that is being returned to them. In Mother Nature the natural life cycle involves dead plants decomposing and returning nutrients and organic matter to the soil maintaining a healthy soil composition.
For centuries farmers have tilled (aerated) their soil and spread manure and other organic materials to improve the soil health. We add soil to our gardens and beds before planting flowers and other plants and the root systems thrive. What then are we doing for our lawns to improve the soil health?

Top-dressing your home lawn with compost is similar to what a farmer does by spreading manure in his field. Adding compost to your lawn at least once per year in conjunction with aerating will being to return the organic matter to the soil and improve soil composition over time.

Yes, you can install a new lawn and bring in lots of new soil and organic matter in the short term, but eventually this organic matter will deplete and you’ll be back to just the mineral matter in your soil (sand, silt and clay). If you consider mulching your beds a necessity – why then does your lawn not receive the same consideration?

To find out more about top-dressing click here.

2010-04-27T08:21:00.000-04:00

Spring and fall are great times of year to plant trees and other landscape plants. Before digging in take time to select the right tree for the right location to ensure your planting is a success.

10 steps for planting a tree:

1. Transportation: Carefully transport your tree from the nursery by covering the canopy to avoid windburn. Do not bounce or drop the root ball to avoid damaging fragile roots. Keep the root ball moist if you’re not planting immediately.

2. Dig In: Dig your hole twice as wide as the root ball and just slightly shallower than the height of the root ball. Scuff and roughen the sides of the planting hole. Compact the bottom of the hole so the tree won’t settle lower.

3. Remove the container: Remove the plastic container from the tree before placing it in the hole, separate and loosen circling and dense roots. For balled and burlapped trees cut and remove the top of the burlap and twine away from the trunk.

4. Planting height: Find the trunk or root flare where the roots meet the trunk, generally where the trunk becomes wider before going into the soil. You may need to scrape the soil back to find the root flare if it buried inside the root ball. Set the height of the tree to be approximately ½” to 1.0” above the surrounding grade. If you must add soil to the planting hole be sure to compact it before installing the tree.

5. “Face” the tree: Orient the preferred side of the tree to a prominent viewpoint – such as a patio or window of the house. When moving the tree lift from the container or root ball and not from the trunk or branches.

6. Plumb the tree: Once the tree is in the hole ensure that it is standing upright. Adjust the root ball until the tree is plumb and then pack soil under and around the root ball to secure it.

7. Improve the soil: Improve the native clay soil in our area with soil amendments like compost or SweetPeet. Mix one part amendment to three parts native soil.

8. Backfill: Pack in the soil as you backfill around the tree by compressing the soil every few shovels of soil to remove air pockets which will help to stabilize the plant.

9. Water: Water only after back filling is completed and the soil is compacted. Create a berm around the base of the tree larger than the root ball so water is concentrated around the tree and does not run off. Water more heavily with the first watering. Then continue monitoring the tree for water, adding generally 1 gallon of water per caliper inch plus one gallon. A 2.0” tree will need three gallons of water one or two times per week depending on the season and soil conditions.

10. Mulch: Cover the planting area with 1.5” to 2.0” of bark mulch, but keep it away from the trunk of the tree. Mulch moderates the soil temperature, helps to maintain moisture, reduces weed growth and prevents a hard crust from occurring on the soil which prevents water from getting into the soil.

Before you plant a tree know where your utilities are located. Call Ohio Utility Protection Service (OUPS) at 8-1-1 or (800) 362-2764 at least 48 hours before digging to have utility lines marked.

Visit http://www.lawnlad.com/ , http://www.treesaregood.com/ or http://www.arborday.org/ for more information.

Hardscaping in the Heights

2010-04-17T17:47:00.000-04:00

Many homes in the Cleveland Heights and Shaker Heights area are now will be soon a century old. Many of the older landscape designs do not mesh with the lifestyles of today’s families. Updating your yard and garden can be accomplished in “extreme make-over” fashion or can be tackled in more modest increments. The foundation of any well conceived and executed design is a functionally and aesthetically pleasing hardscpe.

Hardscape is an integral part of a landscape and can range from a couple of strategically placed boulders to fire places and outdoor kitchens with grills, sinks, cabinets and refrigerators. Hardscape in the landscape industry is the use of stone, brick or concrete (hard material) products incorporated into landscape to help the environment feel more natural or to create more living space.

Hardscape, or "hardscaping" consists of the inanimate elements of landscaping, especially any masonry work or woodwork. For instance, stone walls, concrete or brick patios, tile paths, wooden decks and wooden arbors would all be considered part of the hardscape. But by extension, anything used in landscaping that is not part of the softscape can be considered a hardscape element, including home accents such as water fountains and, yes, even pink flamingoes!

Patios are a great way to entertain guest or just relax by yourself with your favorite beverage. Your project is a reflection of your priorities, lifestyle and values. Your back yard paradise does not have to be featured on the cover of Home and Garden or MTV’s Cribs to enjoy a built in fire place, landscape lighting or other amenities that integrate your yard and gardens with how you want to live in your home. Installation methods have improved over the years making hardscape installations more economical for home owners. A common misconception is that you need specialty trades people to build a fire place, fire pit, or built in grill. Many of these amenities can be installed from kits providing a custom look and can cost effectively be installed by a professional or a very skilled DIY’er.

To begin the conversation about how we can make your yard the envy of the neighborhood – call (216) 371-1935.

[Special internet offer: Receive $100.00 off landscape design consultation services when you mention code LLB0410]

Written by:
Drew Cobb
Lawn Lad, Inc.
Design/Build Supervisor
Drew@lawnlad.com

Lawn care in Cleveland Heights & Shaker Heights reflects our lifestyle

2010-04-12T12:54:00.002-04:00

Our yards and gardens are reflections of our personalities lifestyles and beliefs. When I drive through different communities, both local and afar, I find it interesting to note how lawns are cared for and the role they play in peoples’ lives. Locally I’ve either worked on or visited thousands of lawns over the last twenty odd years and I’ve seen the range from neglected pastures to manicured trophies.

It ‘s funny how the importance of a healthy, functional lawn became a greater priority to me once we put up a swing set for my son. I suppose it’s only natural that as we go through life stages our lawns shift in accordance with these priorities.

When I get called out to visit a homeowner about their lawn, it’s not surprising anymore when I hear they don’t mind the weeds. Growing up in Cleveland Heights and working for many of my neighbors I learned at an early age that a “weed” in one person’s garden is welcome in another. A weed can quite simply be defined as a plant out of place. Whether we choose to accept or reject these plants in our yards and gardens is a personal choice. What most people want, like me, is a healthy lawn.

Weeds, or other pests, in and of themselves are not necessarily unhealthy for the lawn. The problem becomes when weeds, or pests, take over in greater quantity than is acceptable for the homeowner and either the lawn becomes unsightly in their opinion or even worse potentially unhealthy for the turf because the weeds compete for the same available water and nutrients.

For those of us with lawns we can almost all agree that we want a healthy lawn. Disagreement may come in the form of how we go about creating a healthy lawn and whether or not some amount of pesticides (e.g. herbicides for weeds, insecticides for insects) will be used. Controlling pests in the name of a healthier lawn is necessary at times, but ultimately the homeowner will decide their comfort level.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) strategies focus on long-term prevention of pests by building a healthy ecosystem, using methods that are least harmful to the environment. Pesticides are applied in such a way to pose the least possible hazard by targeting the selected pest and are only used as a last resort when other controls are inadequate. The focus is on building a healthy lawn by using all other means available, and balancing this with their tolerance for pests, their vision for the lawn and their budget.

Practically speaking achieving a healthy lawn is more about the overall management strategy and less about controlling pests. Often pesticides are thought of as the silver bullet to make a lawn healthy, when in fact they only remove the pest that is most likely present because the lawn is not healthy to begin with.

A healthy lawn comes from a blend of activities and this spring is the ideal time to get your lawn into the desired shape that meets the needs of your lifestyle. Get started with a spring clean up so the lawn can dry out and breathe. Healthy soil is the building block for your lawn. Adding and replacing organic material, like you do in your gardens with compost, is vitally important. Aerating will help to alleviate compaction and get air into the soil helping roots to grow deeper and make for a more robust and drought tolerant lawn. Proper watering, fertilizing and mowing play important roles Spot seed thin and bare areas to prevent weeds from taking over.

With the demands placed on our time it can be challenging to keep up with the needs of our lawns. Like many things in life, waiting only makes it worse. Get out early this spring and focus on the building blocks of a healthy lawn.

Snow mold in your lawn this spring

2010-03-17T10:01:00.001-04:00

Snow mold is a fungal disease that appears in the early spring when temperatures are cool and the ground is wet - first visible when the winter snow melts. There are two types of snow mold - pink snow mold and gray snow mold.

Snow mold damage looks like circular patches (2"-12") of dead and matted grass - often mistaken for dead or dying patches of grass. Depending on the severity of the outbreak, the circles can grow together and become a large mass. It is not uncommon to find both gray and pink snow mold together in the same lawn.

Pink snow mold (picture below) is distinguished by the pink color of the web-like mycelium growing on the grass surface (see picture below). While the grass is wet, the mycelium looks like cobwebs, as it matures it turns its pink or salmon color. Pink snow mold infects the crown of the plant and can cause more severe injury than gray snow mold.

Gray snow mold (picture below) is similar to pink snow mold except that its mycelium remains whitish-gray and only infects the blade of the turf grass plant. Gray snow mold is also distinguished by the presence of tiny black mycelial masses on the grass blades and leaf sheaths of infected plants which pink snow mold does not produce.

The cause of snow mold:
Snow mold can occur even when there is no snow, however, it is generally more severe when snow increases the amount of moisture, reduces sunlight and prevents the lawn from drying out. Thicker layers of leaves can have a similar impact as snow cover on the grass creating a more ideal environment for snow mold.

Good cultural practices will help to reduce the appearance and impact of snow mold:

Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizers in the fall
Mow the lawn in the fall until it stops growing
Thorough fall clean up removing leaves and debris from the lawn
Manage thatch to avoid accumulations of more than 2"

Repairing snow mold damage:
Fungicides are available for both curative and preventative treatments of snow mold. However, they are not recommended due to the temporary damage snow mold inflicts on the lawn.

Even though a lawn infected with snow mold can look horrible in early spring, most snow mold damage will recover as temperatures warm and the grass begins to grow out. Once the area has dried, the infection will cease and the turf will grow out and renew itself making snow mold damage practically disappear.

To speed the recovery process it is best to lightly rake the infected area to increase air flow to the grass and encourage drying. Some overseeding may be necessary if there is extreme damage and recovery is slower than desired.

Written by:
Eric Johns, Lawn Care Specialist
Adam Perkins Sr, Landscape Industry Certified

Growing Degree Days and your garden

2010-03-10T08:34:00.009-05:00

Temperatures this week will remain consistently warm in the Cleveland area. The weather forecast from the National Weather Service and a consulting meteorology service we subscribe to points to a seasonably warm March. Not that we can't get a "surprise" March snowstorm, the closer we get to April the less likely it is.

What does warm weather mean for your lawn and garden? As the temperatures warm plants will begin to come to life in your yard and garden. There is a programmed sequence that repeats itself each year. Obviously plants can't use a calendar to know when they should bloom, instead they follow their que in the sequence of flowering trees and shrubs based on Growing Degree Days (GDD). Plant phenology follows a predictable pattern each spring season, although the start of the spring season may be earlier or later based on the temperatures. This March is forecast to be more on the mild side as was last year, while March 2008 we had cold temperatures and over 30" of snow delaying spring.

At The Ohio State University OARDC Growing Degree Days and Plant Phenology website you can input your zip code to see what the current GDD reading is and compare to a chart of expected plant and insect activity.

While the ground is still too wet to do much work in the garden, now is the time to begin fertilizing and preparing for work in the yard.

Dormant pruning improves plant health

2010-02-19T18:51:00.005-05:00

It certainly is refreshing to have sunny days after so many days of snowy weather. Now is a great time to get out into the garden to get some dormant pruning done before spring arrives. Your plants will thank you.

Pruning your ornamental bushes, shrubs and small trees this time of year is beneficial for many reasons. Once plants leaf out it becomes more difficult to see the shape and structure of the plant. With bare plants it is much easier to see the dead, diseased and damaged wood to be removed and identify good structural and corrective pruning cuts.

Dormant pruning will redirect growth to create a more natural looking plant while revitalizing the plant by directing new growth to healthier branches.

You can learn more about dormant pruning from the Heights Observer article here.

Save the Date: NCSL plant sale

2010-02-10T18:14:00.000-05:00

The Nature Center at Shaker Lakes will be having their annual plant sale on Saturday May 15, 2010. (http://www.shakerlakes.org/)

Come join the plant sale to help support the mission of the Nature Center - connecting people with Nature!

Is this a challenging econonmy?

2009-05-27T07:15:00.002-04:00

I certainly can't say that we have not been impacted by the down-turn in the economy. We have been both by customers who have had to suspend their service until they find employment again and by those customers who have trimmed back on the amount of service they receive as they look to tighten their personal budgets. Many would find this disheartening and would become discouraged. Maybe it's my entrepreneurial spirit that doesn't accept 'no' as an answer that keeps me pushing forward and seeing this period of time a wonderful opportunity.

There are many homeowners who want to hire a professional landscape company for a project or some assistance with their maintenance but don't know where to turn. We have heard more stories this year from homeowners about bad experiences with so called "landscapers" that turned out to be little more than a couple of guys with a lawn mower and wheelbarrow. We have heard time and again how they hired a particular person or company and had hoped for the best and ultimately were disappointed by the experience and outcome.

Some have told me this spring that they thought they could save money by hiring the one or two guy outfit, even though they knew they were taking a risk. They decided afterwards that professionalism does matter and it often saves them time, money and unnecessary frustration.

When I'm on sales calls I am always looking for ways to help the customer maximize their budget and get the best value. I will even recommend that the small guy be brought in at certain points based on the owner's needs and priorities. I learned a long time ago where we fit well into the equation and where we should defer to someone else. We are not interested in doing anything for anybody, but rather serving our customers where we know we can provide results and value.

I'm proud of our team this spring - they are working long hours to make sure that our current customers are pleased with the service they are receiving. They are also working hard to develop and build new relationships in the neighborhoods where we already work.

I am excited every time I am able to give one of our current customers a $50 service credit on their account as a result of their referral. Not only does it tell me that they are happy enough with our service that they would refer us to a friend or neighbor, but it is also good for the customer because they have saved on their landscape cost. Our referral program has introduced us to many people and I'm thankful for these new relationships.

Tough economic times many will ask? Not for us - I reply, it's an exciting and rewarding time to be in business. It's fundamentals really. Listen to your customer, offer them options, provide consultation, deliver on your promises and follow through. We're certainly not batting 100% this spring, but we're working hard to make sure that each person gets what they need.

Thank you to our customers for making this a great spring and an inspiring time to be in business.

Will your lawn survive the summer heat?

2009-05-20T07:09:00.000-04:00

Here are some tips for growing and keeping a healthy lawn.

Mowing tips

Mow the grass tall, at least 3 inches, but 3 ½”. The taller the better. Longer leaf blades collect more sunlight for increased photosynthesis, which is how the plant creates food for itself. More food means more energy and stronger grass plants and healthier roots. Tall grass shades the soil, keeping it cooler and minimizes sunlight that weed seeds need to germinate.
Cut shady lawn areas less frequently, allowing the grass to grow taller so it can capture more sunlight.
Sharpen your lawn mower blade before summer heat, and again in late summer for best results, or any time you run over sticks or rocks.
Change the direction of travel with each mowing to help stand the grass up.
Mulch the grass clippings back into the lawn. Rake out clumps of clippings. Clippings are more than 80% water and they will return nutrients and water to the lawn. Clippings do not contribute to the build of thatch.

Watering tips

Measure the amount of water your sprinkler delivers by setting out some cake or pin pans. Measure the water collected in the tins on a level surface after ½ hour to determine how much total time is required to deliver one inch of water each week.
Supplement rain fall as needed to make sure your lawn receives at least one inch of water per week.
Break up the watering into several sessions, watering for as long as possible without allowing the water to puddle. When puddles form the soil is saturated and can not absorb any more water and water is being wasted. If you have watered less than one inch you will need to water again.

Other tips

Clean up leaves, sticks and other plant litter before mowing. Plant litter and debris may contribute to excessive thatch build up and should not be left on the lawn. Mowing over sticks and other debris will dull your mower blades more quickly.
Do not leave hoses, children’s swimming pools or other items on the lawn for an extended period of time. Hot plastic items will heat up and bake the lawn creating dead spots.
Fertilize the lawn with either traditional or organic products to deliver the equivalent of four pounds of nitrogen per thousand square feet for the season. Break up the fertilizer into four or five applications. Reduce the amount of fertilizer you apply in shady lawn areas by half or two-thirds.
Avoid aerating and de-thatching the lawn when dry and hot. Wait until cooler temperatures return this fall, or if you must do it now then water the lawn thoroughly.

It is easier to keep a lawn green and healthy than it is to make a lawn green and healthy. Follow these tips to avoid having to repair or renovate your lawn this fall.

Top five healthy lawn building activities this spring!

2009-04-07T11:26:00.000-04:00

Ahh yes, springtime - lush lawns and gorgeous gardens. Your spring clean up is a vital first step to good lawn health. Removing all of the leaves, sticks, nuts and other debris out of the lawn will help the grass to breathe. Once you've raked over the yard take the next steps to build a healthy lawn which is the best defense against pest related problems and will reduce the need for pesticides.

Top five healthy lawn building activities this spring:

Aeration: Lawn aeration is the mechanical process of removing soil cores from the lawn. The holes open up the soil and allow the roots to get more oxygen and make fertilizing, watering and other lawn applications more effective. Aerating helps to build stronger roots making your lawn more drought and pest resistant. You can aerate from mid-April to late May when the soil is moist.

De-thatching: Some thatch is good, but more than ½” of thatch diminishes the effectiveness of watering and lawn applications. Most heavy lawn renovations involve extensive work to remove or aggressively managing thatch. De-thatch or verti-cut your lawn to remove some of this thatch on a regular basis and your lawn will be grateful. You may need to spot seed afterwards so de-thatching earlier if possible by end of April will give your new seed a chance to germinate and grow in before summertime heat arrives.

Fertilizing: Nutrients are essential for lawn health. There are organic or traditional fertilizer products that will deliver the proper amount of nutrients to your lawn. Consistent application of fertilizer in the right amount is critical to the long term health of the grass. Get your first application of product down early, before the forsythia blooms drop. Plan on four to five applications through the season, timed generally about five to eight weeks apart with the major holidays. Your second application falls on Memorial Day, third around Independence Day, fourth on or about Labor Day and your fifth and last application prior to Thanksgiving. The products will change based on the application and the current weather – so consult with a professional service provider or someone knowledgeable at the local garden center.

Add Organics: Build soil health by applying or top dressing your lawn with organic material. Products like Milorganite, leaf compost and SweetPeet are all good ways to get organic material into the lawn. Organics will help to break down thatch and will improve the soil composition and structure and ultimately improve the health of the soil by creating a better environment for microbial activity which is vital to the health of your lawn.

Spot seed: Thin or bare areas should be spot seeded to prevent weeds from getting a foot hold in your lawn. For best results the new seed needs to be in contact with the soil. Either scratch the surface of the soil, top dress with new soil and seed or aerate the lawn twice and then spot seed thin and bare areas. New seed will not begin to germinate until soil and air temperatures are over 50 degrees, even so early spring seeding now is okay as the spring rains will begin to prepare the seed and make it ready to pop when the temperatures warm.

Spring is the ideal time to get your lawn in shape for the season. The combination of these activities will be sure to improve your lawn and get it ready for the summer season. For additional free information about lawn renovation activities email: info@lawnlad.com with “Lawn renovation” in the subject line.

Thank you for your thoughts...

2009-03-25T22:27:00.001-04:00

This past several weeks I was in touch with about a dozen or so of our customers and had the opportunity to talk with them about a referral program we were developing. I appreciate that my customers were willing to give me feedback on some ideas we had and how we could improve our business and the referral process that we were discussing. Their insight helped to refine the program which is now posted here: www.lawnlad.com/referral

What was most touching to me were the expressions of sincere care and concern that our customers have for our business and the team members who work at Lawn Lad. I was certainly warmed by their outward desire to help us become a better company. We all recognize the uncertain economic times that we are in and it was clear that our customers want us to succeed.

An unintended benefit of these conversations for me was getting to hear about the instances when our crews have made a positive impact on the lives of our customers. I was also able to hear about instances where we could have improved or done something differently that would have been more positive. All of the feedback was very much appreciated and very valuable to me. So, thank you to each of you who made the time in your busy schedules to share your thoughts and opinions with me.

I am very fortunate to have customers who care about us as much as we care about them. We are working hard every day to improve our business and grow better relationships with our customers and the Heights-area community. It is because of customers like you that we have continued to serve the Heights area for 30 years. Thank you again for your continued business, we look forward to working with you again this year.

Sincerely yours,
Douglas Freer
President

Top five priorities for the yard this spring

2009-03-06T10:33:00.004-05:00

Warm spring like weather sure is welcome after the cold and snowy months of January and February. With thoughts turning to spring now is a great time to get started early in the yard.

My top five priorities for the yard this spring include:

Clean-up: While not generally overlooked I do see people delaying clean up which makes the clean-up work more difficult. Get to the leaves, sticks and general debris early while all the plants are still dormant, including bulbs and perennials. Bed clean up is a snap now while the weather is cooperative.
Pruning: The benefits of dormant pruning are numerous and I've written about them previously. Pruning "naked" plants now allows you to see more clearly what you're working on. Pruning before buds break will direct the plants energy into remaining plant parts creating a healthier. Now is your chance to do this work - don't miss out on this limited window of opportunity.
Focus on the soil: Our urban landscapes contradict the natural cycles in nature. We rake up our leaves and other yard clippings and debris and deposit them on the curb for the city to scoop up and hall away. Yes, the city recycles the yard debris to create compost and leaf humus. But this natural cycle of decomposition is not happening in our own yards, and practically speaking I'm okay with having a neat, clean yard so I do the same thing. But what we must do then is replenish the organic matter by adding compost back to our bed and lawn areas. Organics like SweetPeet, leaf humus and compost contribute to a healthy, productive and active soil that allows plants to grow strong and healthy requiring fewer pesticides and fertilizers to keep things looking good. Focus on the health of your soil and it will pay dividends in the long run.
Nutrients: Fertilizing this time of year before the spring growth is an ideal time to provide necessary nutrients to your lawn and plants. Your landscape plants and trees require different fertilizers from your lawn. In a tight economy people have a tendency to pull back on fertilizing because its an area they feel they can do without and you will not see the immediate results. My recommendation would be to adjust your program but do not eliminate it if you're looking for ways to cut back. The neglected lawn will cost more to renovate down the road then what you will pay now to maintain it.
Seeding: It is still too cold to grow grass seed - but now is a great time to plant grass seed particularly when repairing damaged lawn areas. Rye and fescue normally take about 7 to 10 days and blue grass takes about 30 days to germinate in normal growing conditions. Putting the seed down early with good seed to soil contact now will get even the blue grass to germinate sooner than normal when the soil and air temperatures are consistently above 51 F degrees. When the warmer spring temperatures are here for good the new seed will pop up if we've had sufficient rain and snow fall. Less watering and quicker germination - can't beat it. Two drawbacks - A) seed left on the surface of the soil may wash out with heavy rains and you may need to seed again. B) Do not apply typical crabgrass pre-emergent control products with your first round of fertilizing or you will prevent your new seed from growing as well. You will need to use a product like Tupersan if you want to both spot seed and prevent crabgrass.

Get out into the yard and get going. There is nothing quite like a fresh, clean and neat looking yard to welcome spring.

Taking the pain out of hiring a home improvement contractor

2009-02-18T17:45:00.003-05:00

Spring time means home improvements and yard projects, which may mean hiring a contractor to help out. Deciding to hire a contractor can cause fear, anxiety and increase stress. Who can you trust to do a good job, stand behind their work and do it at a fair price? If you understand how to hire a contractor and do a little homework you will dramatically increase your odds for a positive outcome.

The process of hiring a contractor for a project varies on the type and scope of work as well, as the budget. With a deepening recession, homeowners will likely see more offers from individuals and companies they may not have heard of before as unemployed or laid off workers start entrepreneurial ventures with the hopes of making ends meet. Don’t rule out the newer contractors who may be qualified for your job, but there are other risks to consider. Taking the time to select a reputable and professional contractor may save you time, money and wasted emotional energy.

Three key points to consider when hiring a contractor:

Use your gut instinct in determining if you like the personality, style and professionalism of the person or company that you are considering. Feeling like a good fit is the first criteria – but is not the only one. Dig deeper and go beyond your gut instinct before you enter a business relationship that has financial consequences. Be sure to interview at least two or three contractors and get several quotes. Be leery of claims from contractors that simply state they can do the same job for a lot less.
Does the contractor carry the proper insurance including both general liability and Workers’ Compensation coverage? Business insurance is one way to help legitimize a company. Most importantly it provides essential protection for the homeowner from certain liabilities.
- General liability coverage protects the homeowner should an accident occur and there is property damage or a personal injury. It also increases the chance of recovering any claims should a law suit be necessary from a project that fails to perform.
- Workers’ Compensation coverage provides the employee of a company with coverage in the event of an injury while working. If a worker for the contractor is injured on the owner’s property and the contractor does not have Workers’ Comp coverage, the homeowner may be at an increased risk regardless if they are negligent in causing the accident or injury. An injured worker who does not have Workers’ Comp coverage through the contractor may have expenses that they seek to recover and the homeowner’s policy may not provide coverage leaving the homeowner exposed to the liability. Workers paid under the table or paid as “contractors” but are really considered employees by the IRS are not then covered by Workers’ Compensation coverage.
Does the contractor put their quote or bid in writing? Verbal agreements are the root cause for many problems between contractors and homeowners. A written agreement, or contract, should detail the scope of service, timeframe for the job, agreed upon price and the terms. A fixed cost contract prevents escalating costs that are common in time and material bids. Change orders to the original agreement and warranties should also be in writing to minimize forgotten commitments.

In a depressed economy homeowners can’t afford to gamble unnecessarily. For a free list of tips on how to safely select a contractor and what questions to ask – email info@lawnlad.com

Improve plant health with winter pruning

2009-01-05T17:39:00.001-05:00

Burrrr… who in their right mind would venture into the cold and snowy weather this time of year to work in their yard? The brave souls that don their long johns, scarves and parkas to do some dormant pruning will be rewarded with healthier landscape plants and less work in the long run.

Many people fear damaging plants and avoid pruning all together. Being a bit leery is wise, but with a little knowledge and practice, anyone can prune properly and should look forward to positive results. Pruning is the removal of plant parts to improve plant health. Do remove dead, diseased or damaged plant material at any time – there is no time like the present to remove damaged plant parts which may only cause long term problems.

Starting with the basics - there are three main types of pruning. Corrective pruning redirects growth to achieve a desired shape and a more natural looking plant. Preventative pruning removes dead, diseased or damaged plant material, as well as problematic branches such as those overhanging walkways or growing into buildings and homes. Rejuvenating pruning is done by heading back heavy growth and thinning crowded older plants to encourage new growth.

Specifically, dormant pruning benefits ornamental plants and trees by removing unhealthy or excessive growth and deadwood, and by improving the natural branching characteristic of the plant. It is a combination of the different types of pruning listed above. The best timing for structural, rejuvenating, or corrective pruning is late January through early March when the plant is inactive. So grab your hat, gloves and tools and let’s get busy.

Proper Pruning Tools & Tips

Use bypass pruners and loppers (Use anvil style pruners only on dead wood)
Use the proper sized tool for the job – pruners for small finger sized branches, loppers for thumb sized and larger branches and saws for bigger branches and limbs
Keep equipment clean, sharp and rust free
Get a holster to store tools so they don’t get lost and avoid contact with the wet groun

Dormant pruning helps to maintain a plant’s size in a limited space, and it revitalizes older, woody plants. Plants pruned during dormancy become healthier in spring as the plants energy is directed to fewer remaining branches which is supported by the same root mass. The increased energy transferred to healthier remaining stems and branches grows a more prolific and healthy plant.

Dormant pruning reduces headaches during summer pruning work. Keep in mind that pruning actually encourages growth. For those plants that are sheared in summer months like the common privet hedge, new growth rapidly appears with twice the growth output. This is what causes the outer portion of the plant to become so woody – and darn tough to cut back after years of shearing. Selectively removing some of the excessive woodiness will help to redirect plant growth helping the plant to fill in thin and bare areas.

Before starting, have a vision for what your pruning will accomplish so you are careful to prune the correct way to achieve your goals. When pruning, follow these steps in order: 1) Remove dead, diseased and damaged wood from the plant. 2) Clear building structures, paths and driveways of obstructing plants 3) Remove any crossing or rubbing branches that might cause future injury. 4) Thin and head back according to the plant’s natural growing characteristics. Thinning prevents ornamentals from becoming top heavy and more susceptible to winter snow damage and it encourages the plant to fill in the lower areas with new growth.

Before pruning, determine what the plant can handle – which requires knowing what plant you’re working on and its growing habit. Some plants need to be pruned gingerly, while others benefit from a vigorous pruning. In general, it is best not to prune more than a third or quarter of any ornamental or tree, and in many cases removing a fifth of the plant is more appropriate. Rejuvenating pruning usually involves a three- to five-year pruning plan.

Pruning in late fall or early winter should be avoided. Soil temperatures are still warm and the plant is still actively transferring its energy stored in the canopy to the root system. Pruning late fall robs the plant of vital stored energy potentially weakening the plant. Heavy fall pruning is not advised because it may encourage new growth that may not have time to harden off before cold weather sets in, potentially causing frost damage to the new growth. One major exception to late winter pruning is spring flowering ornamentals (e.g. lilac, forsythia, viburnum), which are best pruned after they flower and before they form flower buds for the following year.

To learn more about proper pruning techniques – email info@lawnlad.com to receive a free copy of Pruning Landscape Plants - OSU Cooperative Extension Service Bulletin #543

Close up your yard for winter

2008-10-26T13:35:00.001-04:00

A wintery blanket of snow and ice will cover our yards very soon. Now is the time to run through the check list of fall yard maintenance items before it is too late.

Remove leaves and sticks from garden beds, lawns and other areas of the yard
Remove annuals and other seasonal plants
Cut down perennials after several killing frosts.
Divide perennials and remove unwanted plants from the garden.
Mulch around the base of tender perennials and plants that need extra insulation during the winter. Mulch beds with compost, leaf humus or Sweet Peet.
Dig and store tender perennials, tubers and summer bulbs
Cut the lawn up until the air temperatures are consistently below 50 degrees F. Don’t leave the lawn tall going into winter.
Apply the last round of lawn fertilizer when temperatures are below 50 degrees F, this will help root development and prepare the grass for spring growth
Plant spring flowering bulbs before the ground freezes
Turn off in-ground irrigation systems, drain and blow out the system
Drain and winterize water features. Empty bird baths, clean and store
Empty clay pots, store in covered and/or dry location for winter
Stop feeding the fish in the water features
Clean out catch basins, drains and window wells (better now then when they’re backed up!)
Re-edge garden beds, this will make it easier in the spring to reestablish the edges
Water plants one last time before coiling up the hoses, particularly evergreen plants (rhododendron, holly, azaleas, conifers, etc.)
Spray anti-desiccant on plants, particularly broadleaved evergreens that are exposed to winter winds.
Inspect outdoor lighting, replace bulbs as needed. Adjust timer as necessary.
Stack fire wood up off the ground, cover with a tarp to keep dry.
Prune plants now only for clearance along driveways, walks and buildings or to remove any damaged or diseased plant parts – hold off on major pruning until late winter and early spring.

Click here for comprehensive season by season check list of lawn and garden to-do’s.

What happened to my lawn this summer?

2008-08-22T19:10:00.002-04:00

This is the time of year that the true health of a lawn is exposed. By end of summer a number of factors have conspired against our lawns. A combination of activity on the lawn, shade and drought stress have helped to decrease the health of the lawn which increases the susceptibility to insect damage. And, weather conditions this summer encouraged certain lawn diseases which may have had an impact. All of the potential stresses add up to a lawn that could look better and be much healthier.

Heights area yards are often saddled with shade from the wonderful mature trees that are so plentiful. However, turf grass needs at least four hours of sunlight for the grass to be healthy. Shade also impacts available moisture – generally contributing to increased drought conditions as trees soak up available moisture.

Fortunately for homeowners, fall is generally the best time to rehabilitate your lawn. Now is not the time to try and perk your lawn back up with fertilizers – the magic cure is not contained in an easy to apply bag.

In the long run, practicing proper cultural practices will have the biggest impact on the health of your lawn. Cultural practices include mowing, irrigation, aerating, de-thatching and top dressing. For do-it-yourselfers you can make a big impact on your lawn with a little effort and time, or you can hire a service provider to help you with the items that you may not be equipped or able to handle yourself.

Keeping it simple is important. Mow your grass tall. You don’t always have to cut lots of grass each time. Raise the mowing height to three inches or taller. Skip a mowing or two if the lawn doesn’t need it. Cutting the lawn too short encourages weeds and reduces the health of your existing grass. Sharpen your mower blades at least twice a year if not more regularly and leave the clippings on the lawn as long as you don’t create piles and clumps of grass.

Heights area lawns will benefit tremendously from aeration at least once per year, either in the spring or fall. Aeration is the process of removing cores of soil throughout the lawn allowing air to get to the roots of the turf grass. It helps to alleviate compacted soil and encourages better surface drainage to minimize the potential for moss growth. You can rent an aerator for $50 to $60 for a half day or hire a service provider to do it for you. Shady lawns that have moss or those that have not been aerated recently will benefit tremendously from aeration twice a year – both spring and fall. The soil should be slightly moist for good penetration. Aerating the lawn twice in two directions will not hurt the lawn.

Thatch build up occurs in lawns that are actively growing or that have been under maintained over the years. Thatch is the layer of dead bio-mass that has not decomposed between the crowns of the turf grass plant and the soil. It builds up and creates an impermeable layer that prevents moisture, fertilizer and other lawn applications from getting to the soil. Some thatch is good as it helps to stabilize and cool the soil, but more than ½” of thatch becomes problematic. Removing thatch can be done by hand with a rake and lots of effort or with a power dethatcher or verti-cutter which can also be rented like an aerator. Rake up the thatch and compost it or bag it for the city to pick up. Aggressively removing thatch may require some spot seeding in areas that become very thin.

Healthy soil is the vital building block for a lush and full lawn. Any lawn can be improved by top dressing with organic materials like compost or leaf humus. Heights area lawns have heavy clay which anyone who has tried putting a shovel in the ground knows is hard to dig in and thus difficult to get plants to grow in. Gardeners top dress their vegetable gardens and flower beds with leaf humus and compost products to build the soil and help feed the plants. Consider doing the same for your lawn. There is very little organic matter left in the clay soil of our lawns. Adding organic matter like compost improves the soil composition which results in healthier grass. When top dressing, a little bit goes a long way to helping your lawn. Over application will smoother the grass, so applying a very thin layer will be more beneficial. Plan to buy material in bulk quantity if possible. Measure your lawn area and determine the square footage (length x width = square feet). ¼” of compost spread out over 3,000 square feet will require approximately 3 cubic yards of material (or about forty five 2 cubic foot bags of product).

Instant cures are for late night infomercials. Good maintenance practices applied over time, like exercise and diet, will provide the best results. Not all lawns need to be dethatched, so check first. All lawns will benefit from aeration, top dressing and mowing the grass taller. The work you put into your lawn this fall will pay big dividends next year, helping your lawn to better survive next summers heat and drought.

Caution: Increased insect activity this summer

2008-08-05T09:52:00.005-04:00

In a letter dated August 4th to our current customers:

We’ve had a rainy summer which has increased soil moisture, providing a more desirable habitat for lawn insects. We are seeing signs that there may be more damage to lawns this summer than we have seen in years past from these little invaders.

Larger than normal adult Japanese Beetle populations have been noted by Ohio State University Extension service in multiple areas of the state. The large adult populations may result in a large new white grub population. One major factor contributing to the success of the grub is current soil moisture conditions. Soil moisture levels are high which will make it easier for the female Japanese Beetles to find suitable locations to deposit their eggs which will hatch into the larvae or white grub.

We have also seen increased incidence of sod webworm and are beginning to see evidence of chinch bug in some lawns, particularly those lawns that have a history of chinch bug activity.

How are insects controlled?
Traditionally we wait and monitor sites to evaluate pest populations and potential for damage before determining if a curative insecticide application is warranted. The benefit to this approach is that we do not simply apply insecticides on a broad basis – we only apply where and when necessary. Often this results in some lawn damage that needs to be repaired as the presence of insects is not known until symptoms of damaged turf begin to appear.

Preventative applications can be made and are generally scheduled earlier in the summer on those lawns that have a history of insect problems and where the homeowner’s threshold for damaged turf is low. In these cases the homeowner has determined that the risk of damage has a bigger impact and is less desirable than applying a preventative insecticide application.

What should you do now?
We need your help to be on the look out for areas of your lawn that are in the process of turning brown or that have turned brown already. Alert us to these conditions so we may investigate further to determine the cause – as not all brown areas are the result of insect damage.

Option 1: Watch and wait to see if insect damage appears and then evaluate the need for an insecticide application based on insect population and potential damage of the lawn. The benefit to this approach is that in hindsight an application may not be necessary, lowering cost and reducing the use of pesticides. However, the wait and see approach may result in increased turf damage requiring more expensive lawn renovation work to correct the problem.

Option 2: Contact Lawn Lad today to discuss the appropriate course of action and if a preventative application is warranted for your lawn. We do not make blanket recommendations for pesticide use – so if you are concerned and want to be proactive – please contact us to discuss your options so that the potential for damage is minimized.

More information about Integrated Pest Management.

Selling a home quickly – a Realtor’s input on current challenges

2008-07-29T12:37:00.000-04:00

I have been asked by quite a few homeowners this year about home value relative to landscaping as they are preparing to put their home on the market. I decided to do a little research and better understand what is happening in the current Cleveland Heights and Shaker Heights housing market. With the SunNews reporting recently that the Heights area has lost between 8-9% of its population base there are a lot of homes available on the market.

I had an informative conversation with Kevin Cahill, an agent with Keller Williams Realty of Greater Cleveland, who specializes in residential Heights area homes. Cahill shared his insights with me about some of the challenges that sellers face in the current housing market.

“One of the biggest challenges facing a seller in today’s market is the length of time the house sits on the market. As the length of time on the market increases, so do carrying costs for the owner. The ability to make a quick sale in this market provides the best opportunity to capture the homes real value and to cap the outgoing cash flow required to own and maintain the property.”

A report generated late June from information available through the MLS (Multiple Listing Service) indicated the following average market times for homes in the Cleveland Heights and Shaker Heights market for the previous 90 days. The report includes active, closed, contingency and pending listings.
$150,000 to $300,000: 95 days average on market with 362 listings
$301,000 to $450,000: 97 days average on market with 120 listings
$451,000 to $700,000: 119 days average on market with 85 listings
$701,000 and above: 112 days average on market with 35 listings

Cahill commented that he does not believe the MLS statistics reflect the actual market conditions. “I believe the average market times are actually higher – closer to 50% longer than the MLS indicates as it does not account for expired listings or those homes that are relisted which therefore do not reflect the true market time.”

If this is accurate, then for homes in the $150,000 to $400,000 price range with an average market time of about 95 days, the real average would actually be closer to an average of 143 days on market, or nearly five months.

Cahill explained the financial impact: “Let’s use the example of a $250,000 home – with a cost of ownership not including utilities and maintenance costing the owner $2,000 per month. If this home would typically sit at least six months on the market, cutting the market time to twelve weeks would save the owner $6,000, or about 2.5% of the home value.

“In today’s market the goal is get the house to sell faster than anyone else’s. Sellers need to have a strategy.” Cahill shared.

When asked about the factors that would shorten the length of time on the market, Cahill said, “To get on the low side of the average number of days on market there are two factors – price and condition of the home. These two factors will open up the pool of potential buyers, thereby attracting more qualified and likely buyers for the property.”

Cahill explained how buyers today use the internet and how time on market is affected. “Prospective buyers are looking at listings online to determine if they want to make an appointment to see the home. Photos that reflect an attractive, appealing front façade will get more activity. Once the prospective buyer sees the condition of the home, and it is priced appropriately for the market, the market time can drop fast.”

I asked Kevin what impact landscaping has on the sale of a home. “I generally recommend that sellers put in as much time and effort on the landscaping and the interior of the house as they can afford. Spending money on specific projects to get a house ready for sale is worth it – including the landscaping if necessary. It’s going to impact perception, which impacts the number of showings and also the buyer’s opinion of value.”

I asked Kevin his specific thoughts on landscaping and how sellers should approach getting their house ready for market.

“Homeowners don’t always have the cash before the sale to do the work that might be necessary to make the house competitive in this market which contributes to longer market times. Each scenario is different – each house has different needs. Sometimes landscaping isn’t the highest priority if the living room has shag carpeting or there are other more obvious drawbacks to the home. Although basic maintenance goes a long way to making a house more marketable and this includes the landscaping.”

“Most homebuyers will identify initial qualifiers like location or neighborhood, price range, bedrooms, baths and certain key amenities. Good landscaping is generally not defined in the initial search criteria; however the curb appeal gets the home shown more quickly and frequently than other homes that are being considered.”

Thank you Kevin for taking time to discuss the current housing market and how quality landscaping can affect a homes time on market and value.

When a customer complains

2008-07-20T11:23:00.000-04:00

I've written previously about how I don't believe a business intends to provide poor customer service. They don't start off the day with a goal of loosing customers or pushing them away. But unfortunately poor service is all too prevalent.

As a business owner I cherish feedback from my customers. I feel fortunate when I get it because I know that the customer did not have to share their feelings with me. Why then do I hesitate to share my experiences with other business owners or managers when I know how valuable the feedback can be?

At times the complaint is meant to illicit an immediate response - as in, "Waiter, there is a fly in my soup." I'm asking for an immediate response to my problem. But not all problems with service are as obvious to see and easy to fix like a fly in the soup.

I believe that we are a polite society for the most part and in many cases people tend to avoid conflict. Reporting poor service to the business owner or manager can be uncomfortable. If the person in the business is receptive to hearing about the problem then we can at least be satisfied that someone heard what we had to say and may act on the feedback for the better. When the person who receives the feedback or complaint is either not engaged or appears disinterested and worse yet is defensive, it discourages us from going out our way in the future to share again.

I heard someone say once that when a customer complains they are looking for an excuse to continue to do business with you. That comment has stuck with me since the day I heard it. I realize that my choice to share my experience with a business owner is my way of gauging their responsiveness to my needs. I don't expect them to jump up and down for me or be perfect in their service delivery, I know mistakes will be made. What I'm gauging is whether or not they care about what I'm telling them. I'm determining if they are aware of the problem and if they accept this as normal or if they want to make changes.

I know that we have lost customers who never bothered to tell us the reasons we lost their business. Others have commented on frustrations they experienced and we lost them because I failed to respond in a manner they believed to be acceptable. The old saying that only 10% of your customers will complain if they have a problem may be true. Regardless of the percentage - I wish more customers would tell us when something is wrong or not to their liking.

Ever sit at a restaurant and the manager comes by and asks, "Hello. Everything okay with your dinner this evening?" This question elicits the standard response, "Yes, everything is just fine thank you."

If the manager really wanted to know your thoughts he might say, "Good evening. I'm sorry to interrupt. I hope you are enjoying your dinners. May I ask, is there anything we could have done this evening to have improved your experience?" Now this question opens dialogue and invites the customer to offer a suggestion or constructive feedback without feeling as if they are complaining. The customer is at ease and is more likely to be honest.

We began asking our customers this very question and I am thankful we did. I appreciate the suggestions and feedback - it provides us with the information we need so we can make your experience with Lawn Lad a more positive one.

Thank you for caring and taking the time to give us feedback on your experience.

Say Plant Phenology ten times really fast

2008-07-12T17:18:00.001-04:00

Okay, so maybe saying Plant Phenology ten times really fast isn’t the most productive use of your linguistic skills, but if you did want the challenge – wouldn’t it be nice to know what Plant Phenology is?

Simply put, phenology is the study of the timing of recurring biological events from season to season – for both animals and plants. Plant development each spring, from bud development to leaf emergence to spring flower are all timed in sequence based on environmental factors that can be measured and used to predict when these events will occur.

Why is this so important? Those who are observant, and most gardeners and landscape service providers know which plants flower first in the year. Most everyone knows that spring has arrived when the forsythia is blooming. What’s interesting to know is that white pine weevil insects also emerge at about the same time. So, those interested in managing potential insect problems proactively can use a tool like a Plant Phenology chart to know that when the Japanese Pieris is in full bloom, that the white pine weevil emergence will be coming soon.

The actual dates that each plant emerges from year to year is not tied to a calendar we keep on our desk. There are seasonal fluctuations which affect the timing on the calendar from year to year – so we can’t say that on April 1st we should be looking for white pine weevil. By using the Plant Phenology chart we can use the flowing of plants as visual indicators of when we can expect eggs to hatch or adult insects to emerge of certain insects which allow us to monitor pest populations to see if some action is required.

Okay – wow, that sounds like a whole lot to take in. For most homeowners using this tool is not necessary as you may depend on a professional to manage your landscape. But for those gardeners who are continually frustrated and feel as if they are a step behind because you can’t constantly monitor for insects and catch them all – a tool like this is invaluable because it allows you to be proactive.

It is important to know that the plant phenology chart available for each area is a guide and may fluctuate from plant to plant and from area to area. Because plant and insect development is based on growing degree days (GDD), a measure of the accumulated number of degrees over the average baseline, the actual temperature measurement varies from area to area and may even be affected within an area due to microclimates. The age of the plant, moisture of the soil and other factors can also affect the timing of certain biological events.

The Ohio State University Extension office provides a plant phenology listing that is updated with current growing degree day information by zip code.

More information can be found here about how GDD are calculated and some of the challenges that may occur when using this tool. The June 19th edition of the Buckeye Yard and Garden Line newsletter addressed GDD - the issue is located here.

Memories of Staycation 2008

2008-07-03T17:44:00.001-04:00

We’ll a holiday weekend is upon us – here is to a great Independence Day holiday. With summer upon us it’s time to pack the car and head off on a trip to enjoy time away from school, work and the hectic pace of everyday living. I have fond memories as a child of our summer camping trips – except perhaps for the part about sharing the back seat of the family station wagon with my brother and sister – there was never enough elbow room.

I asked some friends about their vacation plans this summer and I’ve heard more about shorter trips, close to home trips, and staying at home this summer “trips” – or what I’ve heard some refer to as a “staycation”. It seems as if travel is lower on the list of priorities this year. Perhaps it’s the price of gas and travel, or in general people’s perceptions of the economy and wanting to keep a tighter rein on the budget. Regardless of the reason – it seems that staying home this summer is a likely alternative to lengthy travel and vacation plans.

I recently had several customers ask me about making changes in their yards because they were going to stay home this summer and they decided to invest the money into their landscapes and homes so they could enjoy it this season and for years to come.

Whether the investment is made in the home or the yard, it makes sense to invest the money where you will get continued enjoyment and value. Recently I installed some additional low voltage lighting into my landscape and it has certainly increased our desire to stay out in the yard quite a bit longer. More than ever we are enjoying our yard late into the evening hours. I’m looking forward to cooler temperatures this fall, when days are shorter and the lighting lets us extend time outside as long as we like.

I suspect that rising consumer prices and a slow economy with uncertainty ahead has created tighter budgets and therefore has caused many of our customers to evaluate how and where they spend their money. While spending on landscaping projects has slowed compared with years past when people had more discretionary money to spend, people are still investing in practical projects that make their yards more livable and enjoyable.

According to the 20th annual 2007 Cost vs Value study conducted by Hanley Wood, LLC featured in Remodel Magazine, exterior home projects recapture approximately 70 – 80% of the cost of the project in increased home value. For example, an exterior wood deck in the Cleveland area brought 71.4% recovery rate in home value. Brick and stone patios serve the same function as a deck and are more common in the Heights area than are wood decks.

What does this mean for us locally? I believe our customers recognize the importance of good landscaping and how it positively affects their quality of life. While larger more comprehensive projects have been put on hold or are being phased in over time in smaller segments, there are still a number of selective projects that our customers are doing to make their yards more livable.

The top three projects this year appear to be drainage, lighting and patios. While I wouldn’t have predicted the number of requests for these projects this season – in hindsight it is not surprising that these three projects are odds on favorites this summer for most frequently requested project. Each of these projects is associated with access and usability of the yard. Poor drainage prevents the area from being used, and lighting extends the useful number of hours that a family will spend outside, while a patio carves out an area for congregating and enjoying the views.

Improving your surroundings and making the space more livable is quite practical. And I think our customers are being more practical with how and where they spend their money – helping to make the staycation just a little bit more memorable this year.

Happy Independence Day!

Take out gardening

2008-06-24T21:15:00.001-04:00

Something about gardening stirs the emotions. Experiencing the sites of the garden in spring certainly feeds at least one or two of the senses. Harvesting from a vegetable garden feeds a few more senses – along with making the hungries disappear.

I’ve not made an objective study of how many gardens there are in the Heights area, but as a regular in many back yards throughout the Heights I have noticed a stark decrease in gardens from what I recall as a child growing up. As a child, it seemed as if almost all of neighbors had gardens as did many of my lawn customers. One of my long time favorite customers, Robert Stanger, a master gardener, would talk with me at great length about gardening and the “projects” in his back yard. For sometime he ran the community garden at Canterbury Elementary School. Bill Valis who lived down the street always had a prolific garden in his back yard – I stood in awe at the size of the plants in his garden that towered over me as a youngster. I’m not sure what he fed those plants, but I think if he was a follower of Jerry Baker I’m sure some of the Pabst Blue Ribbon he always had at arms reach was included in the plants fertilizing program.

I’m not sure if gardening is as popular today as it was twenty five years ago when I was growing up. But I can appreciate the challenges of a time constrained schedule and how it does not marry well with gardening. There are many things a garden provides. For some it’s the experience, exercise, and joy of planting and harvesting. For some it’s more the enjoyment of fresh produce that you can really taste. Local in many cases just tastes better than produce flown in from across the country.

Well, if fresh produce is what you’re after, there are options. I was interested in an article I read in the Plain Dealer from the end of May about the growing number of Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs. CSA’s provide an alternative to either gardening or the grocery store for fresh vegetables. At a nominal cost, you can basically order or contract for your produce throughout the growing the season. This benefits the farmer in planning and helps with cash flow, while the consumer gets local, fresh produce at regular intervals throughout the season.

The concept of CSA’s struck a cord with me. While my plan is to begin gardening this summer with my son, I’m a bit more of a pragmatist and want to make sure we have fresh produce on the table. I’m not confident that much of the harvest is going to make it past the edge of the garden once my three year old discovers the fruits of our labor. I can only imagine between the nibbling off the vine and the fun he has squashing things that this year we’ll be gardening more for the experience than the harvest. Perhaps the CSA’s can provide the harvest so we still have something fresh for the dinner table.

When service fails

2008-06-20T10:42:00.007-04:00

I'm fairly certain that businesses do not intentionally set out to disappoint their customers by providing poor service. It is truly amazing when you begin to think about recent experiences and how poor service has become the norm rather than the exception to rule.

Recently I attended a trade/convention show in Buffalo, NY and was on the receiving end of my fair share of poor service. I had some distance away from our business and therefore an opportunity to reflect on the topic and more in particular about the experiences that our customers have when interacting with our business.

When I'm the recipient of poor service I'm human and find myself getting irritated or frustrated to varying degrees. Depending on the situation I consider my options and decide what I'm going to do. Often times I grumble, walk away with a poor taste in my mouth and catalog the experience so I can decide in the future whether or not I choose to do business with the establishment again.

When I'm the recipient of less than satisfactory service I begin to ask myself a series of questions.

Is the business owner or manager aware of how their employees are failing their customers?
Will I come back to this business again?
How many repeat sales is this business going to loose because it can't get the basics right?
Should I say something to owner or manager? Wouldn't they like to know what is happening?

The extent to which I ask myself these questions in part depends on the relationship I have with the business and my need or desire to continue a relationship with the business. It is opportunities like my time away from my own business where I can reflect on these questions and begin to evaluate how other businesses succeed at customer service and how others seem to fail.

I know that we have let down our fair share of customers over the years. For me, the topic of customer service is very personal. While certainly this is no excuse, we have gone through and continue to experience growing pains. In the process I know that I have let down my fair share of people by failing to follow through. I ask myself why have I let this happen and how do I fix it. As a business owner I make it my goal to insulate our customers from having to experience our growing pains. Our customers have enough frustrations in the day, we certainly do not need to add to the list.

For me, I recognize that we are not perfect. It's the reason that I often give other businesses a second chance when I feel let down from their service. What I hope to see is improvement in other businesses where I may have been the recipient of bad service. In our own business I have recognized some areas that we are weak. In many cases it was our customers who pointed out some areas where we needed to improve. I appreciate those customers who take time from their day and risk sharing their thoughts and feelings regarding their experience.

In most cases the feedback I get is taken very personally. As the owner of the business I'm responsible for the experience our customers have and it begins with me. I think back to the times when I know I let someone down because I didn't follow through. Some distraction got in the way between my commitment to them and the follow through they expected. I've worked to change things internally so I can avoid making these same mistakes again.

Hopefully our customers can see the difference we're making - and in any case, will continue to provide the feedback so that we can continue to improve. Some of the feedback we get is louder, more direct and shall we say... obvious. While at other times the feedback we receive is more subtle. Anyway the feedback comes it is appreciated and please know that you are heard.

Learning from others - Thank you Thornton Landscape

2008-06-17T08:04:00.005-04:00

I'm grateful for a recent opportunity to explore and learn new business practices by visiting an established landscape design/build company located north of Cincinnati, Ohio. Rick Doesburg of Thornton Landscape generously opened the doors of his business and gave a day of his time to share his business operations with us.

Last week I set out accompanied by two managers from the Lawn Lad team, Adam and Drew, en route to Cincinnati as a part of the PLANET Trailblazers program. In a continuing quest to learn from others who are successful in this industry, we took the opportunity to learn about Thornton Landscape and what has made them a successful business for nearly fifty years.

As a growing business we face challenges each day. I know that others before us have experienced similar frustrations and any chance we have to learn from the successes, failures and lessons learned the better off we will be. I have made plenty of mistakes in business and it pains me when I look back and think about how I could have avoided making those mistakes and possibly souring relationships with our customers in the process.

As a business owner who has to make the books balance, I questioned the wisdom of three of us taking two days from the office and away from the business here at home and spending money on travel, lodging and the lost opportunity of working here at the business. In hindsight I do not regret making the investment - we learned a lot from the trip. Perhaps one of the more valuable things to come from the trip thus far is the conversations that have been started on numerous topics about those areas in our business that we can and should improve.

To be certain the conversations are just beginning and the investment in the trip will pay dividends for some time to come yet. I believe the out of pocket costs we incurred will benefit Lawn Lad tremendously as we prioritize areas for improvement.

I value the input from our customers - as this is the primary source for ideas on how we can improve. One of the key questions I want to ask and have answered is, "What could we have done differently to improve your experience?" The feedback provides us with the necessary information to make improvements in areas where we may not have realized we were lacking. Taking the trip to Thornton Landscape and getting outside of our bubble allowed us to see how another successful business is meeting the needs of its customers.

Thank you to Rick and Andy Doesburg and the Thornton Landscape team for having us down and helping us to learn from your experiences. Thank you also to our customers who provide us with feedback about how we are doing and their experiences so that we may continue to improve our service to our customers. I invite you to share your experiences and suggestions for improvement.

Trees & Grass - the contradiction of our suburban landscapes

2008-06-14T07:58:00.001-04:00

We love our landscapes. After working in our customer’s landscapes all day I enjoy going home to my own yard so that I can relax and spend time with my family.

When I do have the opportunity to take a walk through the park, which is not quite as often as I would like, I often reflect on the natural cycle in nature. I’m in awe of how complex, yet utterly simple it seems. The seasons change and the life cycle is always working. The natural ecosystem balances out without man’s interference.

In our rectangular suburban plots we can’t wait or don’t want to wait for Mother Nature to run her course. For example, fall leaves don’t settle into the landscape and decompose over the ensuing months. Instead we rake them up and sweep them to the curb, where they are picked up and hauled off to a composting facility. Leaves and other landscape trimmings and debris are composted for a year or more resulting in rich organic compost, available then to rebuild our beds replenishing much needed organics and nutrition to our landscapes.

We ask our suburban landscapes to do things that Mother Nature did not intend. We love large shade trees and a nice green expanse of cooling grass below. Mother Nature did not intend for grass and trees to grow together – but we insist that they do, and then wonder why neither is thriving. Grass grows in meadows where it receives full sun, where as trees grow in forests and groves - each thriving in its own ecosystem.

In our suburban landscapes the trees take the brass ring. With their expansive root systems and over arching and shading limbs, grass doesn’t have much of a chance. Compacted soil and poor drainage also conspire against our own green pastures often resulting in mud, muck and frustration.

What then is a homeowner to do when the lawn is important? The physiology of the plants living in our landscapes will not take notice of the address change and therefore do not realize they should behave differently in our yards. Plants will behave as Mother Nature designed them to.
Begin with reasonable expectations. It might take some reading and research or consultation with a professional to help develop an appreciation for what is possible. But recognize that lawns will be less successful with increased shade and competition from surrounding trees.

Evaluate the area and decide on priorities. If the lawn is important then thin and/or limb up surrounding trees to improve sunlight and air circulation. Build the soil of the lawn with topdressing – adding organics is critical. Aerate the lawn once, if not twice a year. Plant grass types that can tolerate more shade. Raise the mowing height as tall as you can and skip mowings when possible to leave the grass tall. Water as necessary to keep the lawn healthy, but remember, the healthier the root system the less watering you will have to do. Shady lawns typically have week roots systems, so focus on the roots and your lawn will be much improved.

The health care pinch

2008-06-07T11:11:00.001-04:00

Health care seems to be a regular headline in the news. Like many small business owners I must know enough about a topic, like health care insurance, to make purchasing decisions and administer the benefits for the company. This certainly does not make me an expert on the topic – but like many, I am a consumer and purchaser of the products and services and have some very personal experience with the process.

As the owner of the company I’ve made the choice that offering benefits is an important part of the compensation structure for our employees. I believe that we are able to attract and retain excellent talent in part because of these benefits. Not all landscape service companies offer or provide insurance coverage to their employees.

Beyond major medical plans which includes an HSA option, we offer dental, vision and term life insurance. We also provide long term and short term disability plans. We just began offering an FSA (Flexible Savings Account) so that employees can use pre-tax dollars for all medical related expenses.

Our renewal rates are scheduled to increase approximately 12% this year, which I’m told is in line with the national average. This is on top of an increase from last year of 18% and similarly the year before.

I’m not sure what the solution is to continuing to provide health insurance and related benefits to our employees. I’m committed to making the insurance available to our employees and their families. However, our customers are facing increasing costs in their personal budgets and are not interested or able to simply pay us more for the landscape services they receive simply because our costs are rising.
What is a company to do? In order for us to remain competitive in the market place for customers we need to provide excellent value and keep our pricing in line with the market. We also must remain competitive in the market place for employees by offering benefits. We are not just competing with the landscape industry, but other prospective employment offerings where our talented people may go if we can’t offer what they need. Lastly, we must make our forecasted profit so that we can continue to reinvest in the operations of our business.

Do we increase prices? Coupled with rising fuel prices this has happened to some degree already. I’m not sure the market will support significant price increases. Do we cut benefits and/or compensation to our employees? Will our employees be willing to accept these cuts and will they stay with the company to serve our customers? Do we accept lower profit margins as our costs increase? I’m not sure this is a sound strategy if we intend to stay in business for the long term.

The answer is more complicated I’m sure and not so cut and dry. For the time being we have focused on increasing our efficiencies. We are investing in becoming more efficient, and as we grow, the impact of the improved efficiency will pay larger dividends.

Gardening with my son

2008-06-04T18:30:00.000-04:00

Growing up in Cleveland Heights my mother always had a vegetable garden. After mowing the lawn I regularly put the clippings around plants in the garden with the extra clippings going into the mulch pile. I didn’t quite understand why we did these things, but I followed instructions. As the warm months passed by I recall picking tomatoes, lettuce, beans, carrots and berries from the garden – enjoying them on the spot or at the dinner table.

Fast forward twenty-five years and today I look around and don’t find the same number of gardens in the Heights area. Perhaps my childhood memory of our garden and our neighbors’ gardens formed a larger impression on me – thinking that everyone had a vegetable garden. Today though, it appears that gardening doesn’t fit into our busy lifestyles. To talk about your Blackberry today isn’t likely in reference to the fruit in one’s garden.

Last summer I began working with my two and half year old son in our yard. He sure has taken a liking to the weeding knife – as it can dig and make holes like no other tool. This spring he likes digging for worms, grubs and spiders. “Daddy… want to a see the worm?” Charlie asks a thousand why's each day, and at this point the teacher in me hasn’t tired of answering all of the why and how questions.

What a wonderful season to begin gardening with my son. I plan on building a small garden this summer so that Charlie and I can play in the soil, plant seeds, and watch the wonder of nature transform brown dirt into a bountiful harvest.

Who knows if we’ll ever get to eat anything this year - I’m not sure how successful our experiment will be. The deer may conspire against us and the demands of growing business make for long hours. But hopefully when I look back at this season, the draw of working in the soil – nurturing young plants and minds will have drawn me away from the business just long enough to build lasting memories for Charlie.

PS – I’d like to thank Mary, a customer on Torrington Road, Shaker Heights for sharing her stories about gardening with her children and youngest son in particular. Her stories several years ago planted the seeds for me to begin thinking about making our own garden. I welcome your stories about gardening, and in particular – ideas on making gardening fun and exciting for the little ones.

Top 5 Landscape Projects to Decrease Market Sales Time

2008-06-01T18:37:00.017-04:00

"A number of studies have concluded that an attractive, well-planned landscape can increase the value of a home from five to 20 percent. Also, the National Association of Realtors reports that almost 20 percent of buyers consider landscaping to be a "very important" factor in the decision to buy a house." - Jill Sell, May 14, 2008 The Cleveland Plain Dealer

In the current market any advantage a seller can gain by making their home stand out from the rest of the field can greatly impact the bottom line. When selling a home an important factor to a quick sale is making the house as marketable as possible. Sales is a numbers game... and attracting as many qualified home buyers is the first part of the equation.

Excellent curb appeal attracts buyers. While unexceptional, nondescript, and under maintained landscapes can actually repel prospects. The first impression from pictures or a drive by of the property may determine if the prospective buyer will schedule an appointment to see the house.

As a landscape service provider we are often called in to help a homeowner get their house ready to put on the market. Each situation we encounter is different. For some a simple spring clean up is the solution while other projects have included entire yard make overs to help get the house ready for market.

From our experience in working with both homeowners and Realtors, here is our top five landscape check list items to help sell your home more quickly.

Top 5 Landscape Projects to Decrease Market Time:

Get rid of clutter: remove piles of old fire wood, brick and rubbish from the yard and from behind the garage. Get rid of the old swing sets and play equipment if possible. Clean up the yard, which may mean a spring or seasonal clean up is in order to get rid of leaves, sticks and other landscape debris. Clean and neat allows prospective buyers to better imagine how they would use the space and communicates that you have maintained your space.

Basic Pruning: First remove dead, diseased and damaged plant material. Remove plants that don't look healthy or contribute to a clean and neat landscape. Prune plants so they clear pathways, walks and structures. Next, prune and trim overgrown plants that obstruct or obscure sight lines. Prune to reduce over sized or overgrown plants.

Define the space: Layout bed lines and install bed edges that create definition between the lawn and beds. Connect smaller beds with broad sweeping bed lines, eliminating little patches and awkward spots of grass. Clean out the beds of weeds and unnecessary plants. Create a clean look by mulching newly edged and weeded beds.

Green lawns: The appearance of your lawn and landscape is an indicator to prospective home buyers about how you have maintained your home. A lawn in poor condition reflects poorly on the home, so renovate the grass so it will look its best. This may include spraying for weeds, aerating, fertilizing, top-dressing, and over-seeding by slice or slit seeding. A lawn in poor condition can look much better within 60 days. A healthy lawn is more attractive and helps to set off the new bed lines you have just installed.

Add color: Add annual flowers for instant and lasting color that will make an impact. If the house is going on the market in the spring install bulbs the fall before. If the lead time doesn't allow for bulbs then plant pansies in the spring. Follow up with summer bedding annuals like begonias or petunias, both are relatively low maintenance. In the fall plants mums and/or pansies. Install annuals in containers by entry doors or on patios, install or make room in the front walk entry area for annual color.

Decreasing market time directly impacts the bottom line by reducing carrying costs (includes: finance cost, insurance, taxes, maintenance expenses, utilities, etc.).

Begin with the basics. We often see homeowners spending time and resources on polishing and accessorizing the landscape before focusing on basic cleaning and pruning. Following these steps in order will make the largest impact and provide the greatest value. Much of this work can be accomplished on your own, although hiring a professional may get the work done more efficiently, within a shortened time frame and may be more effective with access to equipment, materials and experienced labor. The work is not complicated, for the most part it requires focus, time and follow through.

Lastly, don't overlook the required maintenance for the landscape while the house is on the market. A one time clean up will look really good for several weeks, but without maintenance will begin to loose its impact. Plan to keep the yard in tip top shape for showings that can occur at any time.

First Post

2008-05-31T11:01:00.001-04:00

Here goes - the inaugural post. My good friend Brian gets the credit for encouraging me to share my opinions, ideas and thoughts on topics from gardening and landscaping to running and growing a small business.

Lawn Lad is the business name that I have used since I was a young teenager while mowing lawns and maintaining yards in the Heights area. The business continues to grow year in and year out - bringing about welcomed challenges and good "problems" to have. I am an entrepreneur first - I love the challenge of building a business. I'm fortunate too in that I love the service we provide - creating and maintaining beautiful yards.

When I was in school I used to refer to my business as a learning laboratory - where I would try out new concepts learned in the classroom. Looking back I realize that I wasn't far off the mark when considering the business a learning laboratory - we are continuously improving, learning and growing as the process is never over.

One of the more valuable lessons I've learned is that if something is worth doing then a plan should be in place to make the initiative sustainable. The ability to sustain and commit resources is dependent on the capacity of the individual or organization. While I've always had a decent grasp of our company's production capacity and what we could accomplish in a given period of time, I’ve more recently come to understand and realize my own capacity and limitations. For a small business owner and an entrepreneur like myself, there are new ideas every day providing endless opportunity for distraction – and only so many can and should get my attention.

A good idea often fails due to failure to follow through, or quite simply execution. To be effective at running and growing this business I have to make sure I remain focused on the top priorities. While writing a blog is not necessarily at the top of my priority list, writing is a great way to organize and gel ideas into cohesive concepts. I learn from the writing process.

I’m in the business of solving problems, both externally for our customers on their properties, but also in the company solving operations and other business related challenges. It is my goal to learn from blogging and become better at what I do so that I may provide a better business and product to my customers, employees and the families that have come to depend on and benefit from Lawn Lad.

Thank you to our customers, suppliers and employees, past and present, which have helped us to grow and become better at what we do. I welcome your comments and feedback so that we may continue to learn and grow.