tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65333562484791881462024-03-19T08:02:22.738-04:00Lawn Lad LandscaperDoug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-21038026830361438362015-07-29T16:50:00.002-04:002015-07-29T18:11:44.112-04:00Bishops Weed - Control Options<span style="background-color: white; color: #171717; font-family: Helvetica, 'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3', 'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro', メイリオ, Meiryo, 'MS Pゴシック', sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;"><b>What is Bishops weed? </b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #171717; font-family: Helvetica, 'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3', 'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro', メイリオ, Meiryo, 'MS Pゴシック', sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">Aegopodium</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #171717; font-family: Helvetica, 'ヒラギノ角ゴ Pro W3', 'Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro', メイリオ, Meiryo, 'MS Pゴシック', sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;"> has several common names including </span>Bishops weed, Goutweed and Snow on the Mountain. Bishops weed can be found in the variegated form or a solid lighter color green plant. It prefers moisture and can tolerate sun or shade conditions.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; text-align: center;">Common Bishops weed grows to 10-12" in<br />
height, shading out other plants in the garden.</td></tr>
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It is aggressive and considered invasive, spreading from underground rhizomes and from seed, creating dense patches of ground cover that will crowd out other more desirable plants in the landscape.<br />
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Bishops weed can be used as a ground cover where it is contained by defined landscape elements like pavement boundaries or well defined and maintained beds. Incorporating Bishops weed into a mixed use garden or bed will invite a constant challenge of keeping the bishops weed from invading and taking over other plants.<br />
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<b>Control Options: </b><br />
Control options are varied and you may need to use several strategies to successfully eradicate Bishops weed. An open bed area can be managed differently than a ground cover bed or even perennial bed. The more attached you are to saving existing plants in an infested bed will limit your options. Even with aggressive control it can take a year or more for you to overcome bishops weed. <br />
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Simply weeding a garden bed may not be enough. The Bishop weed plant stem will snap off readily from the root or rhizome leaving the remaining plant part in the soil allowing new tissue to emerge. Keep in mind that plants create food or energy through photosynthesis which requires sunlight. Bishops weed is tenacious and will keeping coming back even with aggressive weeding. The plat spends energy producing new growth in an effort to collect sunlight - but if you can starve the plant of sunlight with timely weeding you can rob the plant of its energy and new growth will slow and ultimately stop. Allowing a plant to grow back in and capture sunlight is giving the weed a second lease on life. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-qeiqWzUFP4V1sM1AMXcFXwl67Z25BFfG8lQkHJDcdw0EknupZ5Wq2512iK6kOoC8Ob9d-K6J2JanJDhiNndu4y40ajOuOL-JovMnDY63IcvrUjVWBsoYV7M1qLryzLmrPp3mY3TxeXgv/s1600/FotoFlexer_Photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-qeiqWzUFP4V1sM1AMXcFXwl67Z25BFfG8lQkHJDcdw0EknupZ5Wq2512iK6kOoC8Ob9d-K6J2JanJDhiNndu4y40ajOuOL-JovMnDY63IcvrUjVWBsoYV7M1qLryzLmrPp3mY3TxeXgv/s320/FotoFlexer_Photo.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bishops weed in two forms: the light green<br />
small plant are newly emerged plants while<br />
the dark green taller plants in flower have been<br />
allowed to mature and will soon produce seed. </td></tr>
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<u>Forking:</u> Using a digging fork, you can lift and separate the soil just enough to pick the roots and rhizome plant parts from the soil. You are effectively hand weeding the garden, but you're not just taking out the top growth, but also the part of the plant that stores energy producing new growth. This can be tedious and challenging in a dense planting, but can be effective at thinning the crop and getting areas of the bed under control. <br />
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<u>Mechanical removal:</u> This is a fancy way of saying weeding, removing the top growth from the bed by hand weeding, hoeing or even using a line trimmer in larger open bed areas. The goal is to remove the leaves that can photosynthesize to create energy for the plant. Regular and consistent weeding is an option, particularly in beds that are dense with desirable plants. <br />
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<u>Block Sunlight:</u> Open bed areas can be covered with black plastic to prevent sunlight from reaching the plants. Black plastic will absorb the sun's heat, deflect water and essentially bake the underlying plants. It may take a full season before the plant is successfully killed in this manner. Pin or weight the plastic sheeting down, but do not mulch over it. You'll want the sunlight to reach the plastic and if you do mulch over the plastic it will hamper your ability to remove the black plastic when the time is right. <br />
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<u>Chemical control:</u> Spraying a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate (i.e. Round-Up) is an option in open bed areas and where collateral damage to surrounding desirable plants is not an issue. Glyphosate is designed to be absorbed through the leaf tissue and will systemically kill the plant. You could alternatively use an organic product like <a href="http://www.planetnatural.com/product/burnout-weed-grass-killer/">Burn Out</a>, but this essentially only scorches the leaves - which helps to prevent the plant from photosynthesizing, but it won't kill the plant right away requiring repeated applications.<br />
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In our experience spraying small, less mature plants is more successful in knocking back Bishops weed than spraying larger mature plants. If possible, we may line trim taller and mature plants first and then return to spray when the new plants are relatively small and likely to simply disappear after dying off. Large dead plants don't just disappear and are unsightly in the meantime. Repeat applications will be necessary as new plants reappear. <br />
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<b>Heartache </b><br />
The slow, methodical and tedious process of removing the plant by hand can be enough to get even the most persistent gardener to call it quits. Alternatively, while it may cause heartache in the short term, a heavy handed approach of removing everything from the bed may be more efficient and prudent in certain circumstances. Heavily infested beds can be cleaned up, managed and allowed to remain fallow until you are certain the bed is clear. You can then plant with confidence and know that your investment will not be overrun by Bishops weed. <br />
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If you do decide to clear out a bed, a word of caution. Saving certain plants from the bed which are transplanted to new locations or temporary holding areas can carry Bishops weed into other areas of the yard, compounding your problem. Sometimes it is better to simply start over and not try to save any of the plants so you can be certain of your success. <br />
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Regardless of the method used, it will take patience, time and the will to win this battle. Persistence is the key. Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-21291751303348235192015-07-20T13:21:00.002-04:002015-07-21T08:45:08.030-04:00Controlling and "eliminating" creeping bentgrass in the home lawnOne challenge for many Heights-area homeowners is the gradual infestation of creeping bentgrass in their lawn. Bentgrass is a low spreading turf type that does not blend well with turf that grows upright like blue, rye and fescue and when left unchecked has the potential to take over large lawn areas due to it's spreading growth habit. The challenge has been how to deal with this tenacious 'weed'... <br />
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Bentgrass by itself if managed properly creates a very pretty lawn. However, the required maintenance regiment for a bentgrass lawn makes it much less desirable than other cool season turf selections. Bentgrass has different cultural needs (e.g. low mowing height, thinning stolen growth/thatch), has different fertility and irrigation requirements and has an increased susceptibility to disease and possibly insects. This high maintenance turf is not desirable for the family on the go with a limited budget for lawn or yard care. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Creeping bentgrass (light green patches) is easy to identify<br />
in early morning hours when the dew settles on the grass.</td></tr>
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Overtime many lawns begin to look like a patchwork quilt due to the mixture of turf types and their relative condition during a particular season. Bentgrass often shows the symptoms of diseases such as snow-mold in the spring and dollar patch in the summer - causing unsightly brown patches. When the weather is right the lawn will look okay or even good, but it can go quickly from normal or healthy looking today to... "oh my gosh, what happened to my lawn?" the next day. </div>
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The reality is that the different maintenance requirements and susceptibility to disease creates a difference in appearance that cannot be readily accommodated with basic lawn care. The best bet for a consistent looking lawn is to remove the creeping bent grass all together. </div>
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<b>Historical Control: </b></div>
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Historically there have been few options to selectively remove bentgrass from the home lawn. The challenge has been no effective weed control product that can selectively remove creeping bent grass from the desirable cool season turf types like you would a broad leaf weed. </div>
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Non-selective herbicides, like Round-up, will kill bent grass but will also kill any other grass plants that are sprayed. This is an effective option when replacing an entire lawn and where you want to kill the entire lawn. </div>
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However, selectively killing spots is not full proof because the application will not get every small sprig or individual creeping bentgrass plant in the lawn - meaning it will return as the super small unidentifiable patches grow and spread larger over time. </div>
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We also tried cutting out areas by hand or using a flame or torch to kill off patches of bentgrass. Similar to non-selective herbicide, this approach killed the patches of grass but did not get all of the bentgrass in the lawn which allowed it grow back in overtime, furthering frustration. </div>
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<b>Today - Effective Herbicide Program for Control:</b></div>
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We have completed testing of a selective herbicide regimen and created an effective program to remove creeping bent grass from the home lawn. The program requires multiple late summer applications spaced at appropriate intervals to effectively control the bentgrass. Depending on the level of infestation, once the creeping bent grass has been controlled we can spot seed or perform a lawn renovation so the lawn fills in with the desirable turf type. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2sPevI624_IvIJKzXwNP9y5-SKq1Wi8QyiyYAOxPNPq_R5uJ8uh2LHDUgp_lpichjmnP3YgwwK1KTmZSUxbfU7cSwLz5qI8_RlsfajFlKWoQpx_cZGempu7SPU1i4AgZv48lpzL2prS3b/s1600/Creeping+bent+grass+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2sPevI624_IvIJKzXwNP9y5-SKq1Wi8QyiyYAOxPNPq_R5uJ8uh2LHDUgp_lpichjmnP3YgwwK1KTmZSUxbfU7cSwLz5qI8_RlsfajFlKWoQpx_cZGempu7SPU1i4AgZv48lpzL2prS3b/s320/Creeping+bent+grass+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Creeping bentgrass patches show signs of stress and begin to<br />
die off after one treatment from our program. </td></tr>
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<b>Timing:</b><br />
The program is generally run from late July through early September prior to any necessary seeding or lawn renovation work. A spring program is an option but becomes more challenging with large renovations that do not have irrigation leading into the summer. <br />
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<b>Looking Forward:</b><br />
Creeping bent grass was used extensively when homes were built in the early to mid 1900's before grass seed as we know it became readily available. Because of the preponderance of its use it will to some extent always be in the area. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndtLVMeh7hbZIMdD6tCKK16iOy7R0czhww_p0mZQXHdHKb0FtKzSueTX5IaNYAlzNG6K3ah_C0CtCepOo5LhbCGgAOY6dW8c1aspNayJFIqR2yxGYjIdPD84HO_jFMMQ0jNIHioxOEZAZ/s1600/Creeping+bent+grass+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndtLVMeh7hbZIMdD6tCKK16iOy7R0czhww_p0mZQXHdHKb0FtKzSueTX5IaNYAlzNG6K3ah_C0CtCepOo5LhbCGgAOY6dW8c1aspNayJFIqR2yxGYjIdPD84HO_jFMMQ0jNIHioxOEZAZ/s320/Creeping+bent+grass+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Less than two weeks after the first application the tenacious <br />
creeping bent grass plants are recovering - time for the next <br />
applications before a lawn renovation is performed to<br />
restore the lawn.</td></tr>
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New lawns may still become infested with creeping bentgrass from neighboring lawns, animals or lawn care equipment that can help facilitate its migration. Before there was no guarantee that the creeping bent grass would not take over a lawn. Today however, with a control program the creeping bent grass can remain in check. </div>
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Our creeping bent grass control program will also manage other broad leaf weeds in the lawn. </div>
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Call today for a free consultation. </div>
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Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-85824850032089506482015-07-20T11:52:00.002-04:002015-07-20T11:52:51.351-04:00How much water does my lawn need?When there isn't sufficient rain your lawn will need supplemental irrigation to keep it healthy and green. While you do the have the option of letting a lawn go dormant during the driest of months, some water is still necessary to keep the crowns of the turf grass plants alive. <br />
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How much water does your cool season lawn need during the growing season? It depends on your goals, but generally about one-inch of moisture per week is ideal and should keep your lawn green and growing. How do you know if your lawn is getting enough water? You can measure your sprinkler output and make a few calculations to get close. <br />
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<b>Measure output: </b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizU-E8NJjUdwM67W9LWWAdl2NsbBwZp5s6GBsw8eycrLkF1lvWbGQvSi_OGQAHQEfugQq0SgM2olKB_xObNzKoTP4ejPOZVZeUYxjBgsVpuCqIsqeplx2z-YkKH2nDwrYKorDftfyDSTAm/s1600/Rain+Gauge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizU-E8NJjUdwM67W9LWWAdl2NsbBwZp5s6GBsw8eycrLkF1lvWbGQvSi_OGQAHQEfugQq0SgM2olKB_xObNzKoTP4ejPOZVZeUYxjBgsVpuCqIsqeplx2z-YkKH2nDwrYKorDftfyDSTAm/s1600/Rain+Gauge.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rain gauge used to measure either natural<br />rain fall or irrigation output.<br />Available at: www.amleo.com </td></tr>
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Set up three to five rain gauges (or pie tins or like containers) throughout the lawn area. This will measure the amount you have applied and help you to determine the coverage. <br />
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Turn on the sprinkler or irrigation system for a measured amount of time. You may need to only run for 10 minutes, but depending on your supply (measured in gallons per minute or GPM), your hose, valves and sprinkler, you may need to run the water for 20 or 30 minutes to get a sufficient reading. <br />
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Measure the amount of accumulated water from the duration of the watering.<br />
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Calculate your output. If you measure 1/4" of water accumulation over 30 minutes, you will need to water for two hours to get one inch of water (1/4" divided by 1" = 4 x 30 minutes = 120 minutes or two hours).<br />
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<b>Create your schedule: </b><br />
Now that you know your watering equipment's output you can set up a schedule that fits your lifestyle. According to the sample calculation, you'll need to water for 2 hours per week. If you can fit in three waterings for the week at approximately 40 minutes, or four waterings for 30 minutes that would be best.<br />
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You may find that if you water for too long at one time you create puddles and water will run off the lawn. Avoid puddling, as the soil can't absorb any more water given the rate you are applying it and you're being inefficient and wasting water. It may be that you need to water for 20 minutes, change areas and then water again for another 20 minutes. <br />
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If you decide that you don't want to water a full inch per week, follow the math and reduce your watering for 1/2" to 3/4" of water per week. Depending on the weather, falling below 1/2" of water per week could result in the lawn going dormant. Keep in mind, it is easier to keep a lawn green than to make it green. A lawn that has gone dormant will need four times as much water to bring it out of dormancy.<br />
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<b>Watering Equipment: </b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9KJmYso6YD3pl-v2tbbeUAfX5deByOmZB7GsYcdkt1MTIvXVqcabsVPPL-3pRHRsywThiGNm_DmydUSWWjBUa5wuiAEMbS_Gsj6MXb8wpIPyypN1rHYq2r8KRSMBtkzwSGV0JCoitT7ZF/s1600/Nelson_Oscillati_4b8d50ec2c47d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9KJmYso6YD3pl-v2tbbeUAfX5deByOmZB7GsYcdkt1MTIvXVqcabsVPPL-3pRHRsywThiGNm_DmydUSWWjBUa5wuiAEMbS_Gsj6MXb8wpIPyypN1rHYq2r8KRSMBtkzwSGV0JCoitT7ZF/s200/Nelson_Oscillati_4b8d50ec2c47d.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nelson Oscillating Sprinkler<br />Available at: www.amleo.com </td></tr>
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If you don't have an in-ground irrigation system, an oscillating style sprinkler is ideal as it mimics natural rain fall. We prefer models with a heavy metal base which minimizes the potential for movement. These sprinklers are not only ideal when watering new grass seed but also for established turf. They cover a large area and sprinkling over a longer period of time allows the water to soak in, avoiding puddling. <br />
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Impulse style sprinklers generally come with a flat metal base or a spike that is inserted in the ground. The rotary sprinklers tend to not distribute water evenly across the area, causing dry and/or saturated areas. <br />
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Connecting multiple sprinklers together may not be feasible depending on your water pressure and volume. Each additional sprinkler uses available volume, decreasing the overall output of each sprinkler. If you plan to connect multiple sprinklers, measure your output to ensure you're getting enough water for each configuration you try. <br />
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Timers are very helpful to make sure you apply enough water and avoid over watering, particularly if you're not going to be right near the sprinkler to monitor. Use a battery powered digital timer (available at AM Leonard or home stores) to set your sprinkler to run for the desired amount of time based on your output measurements. If you use the manual style timer that does not require a battery, measure your output to ensure the timing is accurate - these manual timers "estimate" time based on assumed rate of water flow and not actually on time. <br />
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<b>Additional watering tips and advice: </b><br />
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<li>Water in the early morning hours (4 to 9 am) to allow the moisture to soak in without evaporating. Excess moisture will evaporate as the morning sun heats up. </li>
<li>Avoid late evening or overnight watering, as extended periods of moisture in the lawn may contribute to disease when the proper environmental conditions exist. </li>
<li>It is preferable to water less frequently and for longer periods of time to get the moisture further into the soil. Watering daily for 5 minutes is not as desirable as watering two or three times per week for 15 or 20 minutes (based on your output measurement and schedule). </li>
<li>Shaded areas or lawn areas nearer to or under trees may require more water to compensate for the moisture the tree will absorb. In dry/shade areas you'll never practically be able to water enough to make both the tree and lawn happy - the tree wins nearly every time. </li>
<li>Irrigation systems are a great tool to help manage the turf. Be aware of the output of the nozzles or rotors in your system and measure the output to dial in your timing. Pop up nozzles put out more water in the area requiring less time per zone than do rotary style heads. </li>
</ul>
Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-45319603438747342482011-09-28T13:01:00.003-04:002011-09-28T13:02:47.107-04:00How to plant spring flowering bulbs<div style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></div>There is nothing quite like a flush of color in the spring to wash away the winter blues. Installing bulbs this fall is a great way to usher in spring next season. <br />
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You can either hire a profession to install your bulbs or you can do it yourself. In either case, installing bulbs is a fairly inexpensive way to create great color and interest in the garden. Plan the areas where you would like color. Daffodils work well in naturalized areas such as in ground cover and ornamental beds. Daffodils will come back each year and have pretty good staying power in the garden compared with some other types of bulbs. Flowering early on in spring (late March to mid April) daffodils can fill in empty areas of the garden with bursts of yellow color. Plant groupings or masses of daffodils to create a more naturalized appearance. <br />
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After years of planting bulbs we have found that easier is better. The text book methods of digging larger holes and planting groupings of bulbs will produce adequate results, but for the additional time to dig out the holes and add fertilizer, bone meal and soil amendments, we find that simply using an auger to drill holes and pop in the bulbs is just about if not more effective. <br />
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When planting tulips we prefer a different approach. We find that tulips don't have the longevity in the garden. After the first year of flowing many tulips don't come back, either because they are consumed by hungry rodents or rot in the beds. We therefore have treated tulips like annual flowers. We plant tulips in high profile bed areas that are typically filled with summer annuals and when they're done flowering we pull the whole plant and bulb. By the time the tulip is done blooming in mid May, waiting for the nutrients to return the bulb so you can pluck the stem/stalk from the bulb takes up to a month or more, which means you're left looking at stalks until sometimes mid June before you can empty out the bed and plant other flowers. And then you're not even sure if you'll get results from the bulb the following year. The relatively low cost of the tulip bulbs makes adding tulips a relatively inexpensive project. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrL5rtrgj8GAc30q03vsC7NNKFC2c2yns5YTqeBnteSznoKgkZwRhYzpo48jhJxSM0XuNrapCzg2kCRtL5Bc70ZFeNiIA-bx-U9OWAY75DE7iKM2J0Pf_yZfHppRZUN9V7QkuGtfwyVM6/s1600/AP+07+0524+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrL5rtrgj8GAc30q03vsC7NNKFC2c2yns5YTqeBnteSznoKgkZwRhYzpo48jhJxSM0XuNrapCzg2kCRtL5Bc70ZFeNiIA-bx-U9OWAY75DE7iKM2J0Pf_yZfHppRZUN9V7QkuGtfwyVM6/s320/AP+07+0524+003.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><strong>Step One:</strong> Prepare the planting bed by removing summer annuals and weeds. Rake and lightly grade the bed to ensure a consistent grade. Edge the bed if necessary. <br />
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<strong>Step Two:</strong> Layout where the tulips will be planted. Auger/drill the holes to a depth of 5" to 6". We typically will plant tulips approximately 8" to 10" apart. The density of the planting will depend on how full you want the bed to look in the spring. Figure 100 bulbs will cover about 60 to 70 square feet of bed area with 6" to 8" centers. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQVzldv4pmDPwxaEtQ-sCAm_Xz2jRIzp9VeOcjHnsmdp4a8Eb-ZWN62NgYzM0XpIoqAAnOVKku73MLxaqpPGGVTBo9Kt3mQLIRgn6BFN3he_kv5cusG1Wg35R10G7Z8sBzAXUZFl5Ug6Lp/s1600/AP+07+0524+008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQVzldv4pmDPwxaEtQ-sCAm_Xz2jRIzp9VeOcjHnsmdp4a8Eb-ZWN62NgYzM0XpIoqAAnOVKku73MLxaqpPGGVTBo9Kt3mQLIRgn6BFN3he_kv5cusG1Wg35R10G7Z8sBzAXUZFl5Ug6Lp/s320/AP+07+0524+008.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><strong>Step Three:</strong> Install one bulb per hole. Place at the bottom of the hole. While the text books say to play the flat part down and the pointy side up, we've experimented and found that Mother Nature prevails and the bulb will still come up regardless of how you insert the bulb in the hole. So we feel better we follow the text book instructions on this part of the installation. (I think we can still hear our mother's reminding us to follow directions!). <br />
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Planting daffodils is very similar, drill one hole per bulb, but group in masses of 5 to 10 bulbs per mass approximately 8" to 12" apart. Plant daffodils in ground cover beds and mulched ornamental beds. Because you'll leave the daffodils from one year to the next, plant them in beds that are not high profile where you can allow the leaves of the daffodils to dry out before cutting them back to the ground in mid-June.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuCQO1KzOSpmuu28_c6coRnQjl9Nrnx2OnKpYeWxULavLORcxAjz-NPwC9ZAaxgBhUvisiaH0E_1yNyyuLaxKmQHOF1acwruFzCDCrxi3Det_6Br4Zf-NvMNyp6xO5RSLJ5_eb6ogMcOf3/s1600/AP+07+0524+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuCQO1KzOSpmuu28_c6coRnQjl9Nrnx2OnKpYeWxULavLORcxAjz-NPwC9ZAaxgBhUvisiaH0E_1yNyyuLaxKmQHOF1acwruFzCDCrxi3Det_6Br4Zf-NvMNyp6xO5RSLJ5_eb6ogMcOf3/s320/AP+07+0524+007.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><strong>Step Four:</strong> Rake over the bed and back fill the holes. It is not necessary to press the soil into the holes or do anything special. <br />
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Helpful tip: If the soil in the beds and lawn area are overly moist, lay down strips of plywood <br />
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(1/2" plywood cut to 12" wide strips) to prevent rounding of the bed edges or creating muddy areas from all of the moving around you will be doing. <br />
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<br />
<br />
You can buy bulbs from local garden centers or catalog companies. I prefer to buy from wholesale catalog companies because we know the bulbs have been stored properly and are more likely to be successful compared with home center stores and some garden centers. Bulb suppliers will run out of certain varieties early, so order your bulbs by early October for the best availability.Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-80063949838495122392011-09-28T11:48:00.000-04:002011-09-28T13:04:36.561-04:00Preparing your yard for fallCooling temperatures and rainy days signal that fall is here and it's that time again where we need to begin winding things down while the weather is still favorable. <br />
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Although the month isn't quite over, this September we have had 7.29" of rain, more than double the 3.44" Cleveland normally receives. While this has been good weather for rehabilitating lawns that did not fair well from the spring and summer weather, our garden beds are saturated from all the rain. Be cautious about over watering plants this time of year, but don't put away your hoses just yet. A dry October may rob plants of needed moisture before winter - so wait another four to six weeks before putting away the hoses because we may still need them yet. <br />
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In the coming few weeks you can take advantage of the good weather days to accomplish the following:<br />
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<ul><li>Finish final maintenance trimming and pruning of plants by October 15th. </li>
<li>Prune plants now for clearance along driveways, walks and buildings or to remove any damaged or diseased plant parts. Hold off on major trimming/pruning until late winter and early spring. </li>
<li>Remove leaves and sticks from garden beds, lawns and other areas of the yard as we go through fall</li>
<li>Remove summer annuals when they begin to die back from cooler temperatures</li>
<li>Replace summer flowers with new fall annual color - mums, cabbage and kale will last 6 to 8 weeks</li>
<li>Plant spring flowering bulbs before the ground freezes</li>
<li>Cut down perennials after several killing frosts</li>
<li>Determine which perennials need to be divided now, remove unwanted plants from the garden</li>
<li>Apply fertilizer to the lawn before the end of October</li>
<li>Aerate the lawn to improve root development and to help dry the lawn out</li>
<li>Spot seed thin or bare areas</li>
<li>Inspect outdoor lighting, replace bulbs as needed. Adjust timer as necessary.</li>
<li>Prepare firewood for the winter season</li>
</ul>Good sanitation is important to maintaining a healthy landscape. By cleaning up leaves and dead plant parts you will minimize the potential for recurring disease issues. A clean landscape also minimizes places that rodents and other pests can hide. <br />
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<a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/upload/learning_center/LandscapeCheckList.pdf">Here</a> is a printable version of our year long calendar check list for your yard and garden.Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-78178832848006305592011-09-24T15:40:00.000-04:002011-09-24T15:40:41.337-04:00Do I have creeping bentgrass in my lawn?Creeping bent grass is a common cool season turf type that is commonly found in the greater Heights area and beyond. Its is very common to find creeping bentgrass in lawns unless they have been removed and replaced with a mixture of bluegrass, perennial rye and/or fescues. <br />
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Creeping bentgrass has a different growing habit than the other commonly found cool season turf types - bluegrass, perennial rye and fescues. The upright growth habit of the blue/rye/fescue types make them easy to distinguish compared to the low, creeping and spreading habit of creeping bentgrass. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp9f4MhmI1xHaB6JWe_SIYM-aI_oIV0VCJd-lGKksymKZx0tk0c6995dcP_dy_5O-e_eWeDWE1EzZwKc3zSvAXZcmax5owUkm_y5X7X6VMn2FNsrU0xTtZzzbGXzgKXCHlRmOkf6Iri_Ht/s1600/Bent+grass+in+the+lawn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="191px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp9f4MhmI1xHaB6JWe_SIYM-aI_oIV0VCJd-lGKksymKZx0tk0c6995dcP_dy_5O-e_eWeDWE1EzZwKc3zSvAXZcmax5owUkm_y5X7X6VMn2FNsrU0xTtZzzbGXzgKXCHlRmOkf6Iri_Ht/s320/Bent+grass+in+the+lawn.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Creeping bentgrass can be readily identified in early <br />
morning hours when dew is still on the grass. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>It is easy to identify creeping bentgrass in the home lawn by looking for a few different indicators. Creeping bentgrass is typically a lighter shade of green compared with blue/rye/fescue which tends to have a deeper/richer blue-green color. <br />
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Creeping bentgrass lays over, it does not grow upright like the blue/rye/fescue types. During ht early morning hours when there is still dew on the lawn, there is a more dramatic difference in the appearance of the lawn. The picture to the left shows dew sitting on top of the more horizontal blades of the creeping bentgrass thus making it more obvious. As the moisture evaporates the difference between the turf types may not be as obvious to the untrained eye. Because creeping bentgrass lays over and has above ground tillers/runners (called stolons), it will create a thick spongy mat in the lawn. <br />
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Creeping bentgrass can be a very nice type of grass when used as a singular turf type in a lawn and managed properly. It is desirable because it will handle some shade and also recuperates well from stress. The moisture, fertility and maintenance requirements for creeping bentgrass in addition to disease susceptibility make it a less desirable turf type than other cool season turf types. The cost to properly maintain creeping bentgrass, which is used in golf courses and professionally managed for best results, often makes creeping bentgrass a undesirable turf type. It is often considered a weed in a blue/rye/fescue lawn like in the picture above. <br />
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Often home owners have to "manage to the middle" when they have creeping bentgrass in their blue/rye/fescue lawn. Eventually the creeping bentgrass will spread and take over a larger portion of the lawn if not kept in check. The only effective way to remove creeping bentgrass from the lawn requires spraying it with a non-selective herbicide (i.e. Round-up), then removing it from the lawn and reseeding the area. If removal is not a desirable option, then the owner must manage the lawn to keep both the creeping bentgrass happy as well as blue/rye/fescue mixtures - hence managing to the middle. In the final analysis it will be challenging to manage a consistently green, lush and healthy appearing lawn from season to season due to the different needs and maintenance requirements of the turf types. Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-75280574061326182202011-09-12T14:26:00.002-04:002011-09-28T11:53:34.718-04:00Watering new grass seedOver the years we have installed many lawns and renovated even more, we've seen and experienced both successful and not so successful seeding projects. What we do know to be true is that effective water management is the key to getting new seed to germinate. Too much, not enough or too late are all common problems. Getting the right amount of water when the lawn needs it is essential to the success of the lawn establishment process. <br />
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Grass seed may be installed into an existing or new lawn. A new lawn is when we remove the old lawn completely, add soil, grade and hydro-seed to create an entirely new lawn. A lawn renovation is a series of lawn care related services which will improve the health of the existing lawn, and this often includes over seeding the lawn to fill in thin or bare areas. In either case, new grass seed is introduced into the lawn and now must fill in. <br />
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An irrigation system is a helpful tool to have in getting a new lawn established. However, be careful not to rely on it as if it's autopilot setting. We often see over watering issues when an irrigation system is not managed properly and the owner does not make adjustments to account for the effects of weather or site conditions. <br />
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More detailed watering instructions can be found <a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/upload/learning_center/NewSeededLawnCare.pdf">here</a>, which includes information about the first days of care through the first year.<br />
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<strong>Watering Instructions for a fall seeded new or renovated lawn: </strong><br />
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The first few days and weeks are critical to getting your lawn established. It’s important to water daily (morning is preferable to late day). Water for 10-15 minutes with an oscillating sprinkler, but not to the point where there are puddles. It is imperative to not saturate the soil, so focus on frequent yet light watering. You should be able to gage the soil moisture by walking on the lawn without sinking into it. Check soil moisture to see if shorter or longer time is necessary based on weather and site conditions. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtoVRj6bchGNa66E0BaQZtijQK4im58Dl7fNhdk31X03VL860CECrVVphx_RlUCnBqHmX-6HPVw4SzrXEA7l2ybFOstRSLDwT0TkQgumyad91VIFZ3bAf7x3ru1Mcq-LXFTxEkXJivdxm0/s1600/Seed+germinating.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239px" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtoVRj6bchGNa66E0BaQZtijQK4im58Dl7fNhdk31X03VL860CECrVVphx_RlUCnBqHmX-6HPVw4SzrXEA7l2ybFOstRSLDwT0TkQgumyad91VIFZ3bAf7x3ru1Mcq-LXFTxEkXJivdxm0/s320/Seed+germinating.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Newly seeded lawns require careful nurturing to ensure<br />
successful establishment. Over or under watering can<br />
dimminish the desired results. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>With the new seed you’ll need to water daily for the next few weeks, at which time you will begin to water less frequently but for longer periods of time. You can skip watering in the morning when we have had rain in the overnight. Do not skip watering even with rain in the forecast – as the weather forecast is not always accurate and forecasted rain fall amounts may not be sufficient. Please minimize the use of the lawn as much as possible during the establishment of the new grass. <br />
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Watering for spring seeded or summer seeded lawns will vary slightly. The principal of keeping the seed moist remains the same, but you may need to water more or less frequently depending on the weather. Establishing seed during hot periods of weather is risky - going for an extended period of time without moistening the germinated seed may put it at risk of drying out and dying as result. Remember, too little water is just as bad as too much water. Find the balance by checking moisture regularly and adjusting the watering accordingly. <br />
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Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-2286229982926437222011-09-04T13:33:00.001-04:002011-09-04T13:34:48.627-04:00When Mother Nature conspires against your lawn and gardenWhat a summer Cleveland has experienced. With cooler temperatures signaling that fall is around the corner, our yards and gardens have an opportunity to recover from the stresses of this past season. <br />
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April was the wettest April on record with more than twice the normal rain fall. May turned out to be the second wettest May on record. Cleveland normally receives approximately 6.87” of rain in April and May – but instead we had 14.63” – 212% over normal. With such wet weather the root systems in our lawns and garden plants could not become sturdy before summer heat. In April and May there were 37 days with rain, homeowners and landscape and lawn care companies alike struggled to keep up with normal yard and garden maintenance activities. <br />
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June didn’t really do us any favors. The wet spring resulted in weaker lawns – and then the soil dried up rapidly as we received less than normal rain fall for June. The soil in our gardens and lawns cannot store up the extra moisture, so the weaker root systems in our lawns struggled to provide enough water to suffering turf grass plants that began to wilt with the lack of moisture. Most homeowners were not watering their lawns because they were remembering how wet it was just weeks prior – and logically it would seem that watering was not necessary. Lawns became more stressed. <br />
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July was the last nail in the coffin for many lawns that were already weak and under performing. July was both the second warmest July on record, but it was also the fourth wettest on record with more than twice the normal rain fall (7.47” of rainfall versus normal of 3.52”). While common sense would tell us that moisture is good when it is abnormally hot – July actually suffered from ineffective rain falls. There were a total of nine days of precipitation – including a record setting 3.65” of rain on July 18th. When rain falls so rapidly it runs off the lawn and garden and does not get absorbed into the soil. Soil remained fairly dry below the surface despite the record rain falls. Top it off with nine days with temperatures above 90 degrees and lawns began to show real signs of stress. Crabgrass and broad leaf weeds filled in the voids where weaker lawns thinned out and lawn care companies struggled to keep up with weeds that were so prevalent. If it wasn’t raining it was too hot to spray weeds. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3xPLr7temUHpk79nlauadDcqx7pDm6bhK8_ezEMyTw193n87ORPittjteqb3JO7o21Fz565PXti4GqvVp52z9a8dCBBhDsiNPmpWLuG1J7HoW2vcj4FZ7And2WxtQToe5mPDCzLqdOB-/s1600/AP+080828+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3xPLr7temUHpk79nlauadDcqx7pDm6bhK8_ezEMyTw193n87ORPittjteqb3JO7o21Fz565PXti4GqvVp52z9a8dCBBhDsiNPmpWLuG1J7HoW2vcj4FZ7And2WxtQToe5mPDCzLqdOB-/s320/AP+080828+006.jpg" width="320px" xaa="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lawns with poor root systems became stressed this summer <br />
and will require renovation work to recover this fall.</td></tr>
</tbody></table> August was only slightly more moderate –but still remained relatively warm. Another record setting 3.51” of rain fell on August 14th, which is the normal rain fall for the month of August. When an entire month’s rain fall arrives in one day – there is little benefit for plants. Fortunately by the end of August temperatures cooled and moisture returned allowing for desirable lawn growing conditions. <br />
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What lessons can be learned from a year with such extreme weather? Focus lawn care efforts on building the root system of your lawn which requires focusing on soil health. Healthy lawns with strong root systems rebounded in late August. Lawns that became thin or weak experienced more weeds, have brown and dead patches and require seeding and renovation work this fall. <br />
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<a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/services/lawn-renovation/">Click here</a> to find out more about lawn renovations. Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-35598364646753196312011-09-01T12:53:00.002-04:002011-09-04T13:18:53.279-04:00Imprelis and the continuing fall outThe Imprelis herbicide has been national news this year. A new weed control product released by DuPont this past spring showed great promise in managing difficult to control weeds with lower amounts of herbicide. However, after trees began showing signs of damage and dying off this spring it appeared that Imprelis was the culprit. <br />
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It is important to know that Lawn Lad never purchased or used Imprelis in our operations. While we are always looking for and testing new processes and products to use in our operations to provide the best possible results - we are reluctant to be the first to test new products for this very reason. You can rest assured that we did not spray this product on your property. <br />
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<em>For more information about Imprelis here is an article from the Ohio State University Extension newsletter - The Buckeye Yard & Garden Line from September 1, 2011. </em><br />
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IMPRELIS UPDATE. An ongoing saga this year is a self-inflicted wound, an iatrogenic agent, so to speak, that has affected every corner of the green industry and their customers. An "iatrogenic agent", borrowed from medical terminology, is something which intended for positive use, ends up with a negative effect. The cure that creates another crime - a side effect. The case study we are all living this year is of Imprelis, a weed - killer, an herbicide developed by DuPont. This herbicide was used commercially for the first time this spring for a variety of turfgrass applications. It was widely touted as a low volume herbicide for broadleaved weeds, including many tough to control weeds such as violets. It was touted as being very effective for these weeds, AND it was! It was touted as having low environmental danger because it did not have the tendency to volatilize (turn into a gas during hot weather) and move off-site to unintended plants; the US EPA touted this as a plus. Many of the better-informed green industry companies, in good faith, with a labeled product, added Imprelis to their programs for this year. <br />
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Imprelis was indeed effective for these weeds. Unfortunately, unintended consequences did emerge. After initial applications in April, starting in late May and early June, lawn care companies and their customers, golf course professionals, and professionals taking care of turfgrass in commercial sites began noticing problems, not on the turfgrass (and weed control was excellent) but on certain adjacent trees. Most noticeably affected were evergreens such as Norway spruces, white pines, other needled conifers, and in some cases deciduous trees such as honeylocust. <br />
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There were comments on the Imprelis label about not applying the chemical on exposed roots of trees and of not using grass clippings from treated areas as mulch. However, for unanticipated reasons, off-site damage of certain trees occurred in a number of cases. Not always, in fact the vast majority of Imprelis applications resulted in no damage to adjacent trees. Trees do have extensive root systems, though, that as the tree grows, roots extend well beyond the dripline, and we did have many major storms with localized flooding, and it turns out that, though volatility of the chemical was low, root uptake appeared to be a major problem for certain trees. <br />
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So, for example on Norway spruce, we began to notice browning and curling of new shoots, browning and twisting of needles, sometimes browning of entire trees. Often there was still green tissue in the buds, so there was hope for recovery. The extent of damage varied greatly, sometimes occurring on some trees in a line but not all, even though clearly, as noted by weed control in the turfgrass, the application of the herbicide was uniform. The particular geography of the tree root system into the turf area was clearly a factor. The vascular (water and nutrient conducting) system of spruces and pines was a tip-off to the root uptake aspect of this problem. Unlike many plants, a spruce's vascular system ascends spirally up the tree, and when browning and twisting on a tree was not throughout, you could see the pattern of damage in a tell-tale spiral pattern, indicating root uptake. <br />
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As the problem emerged, the green industry, DuPont, regulatory agencies, the media and the general public have become more and more aware of this issue. Ultimately, Imprelis sales were suspended, and incredibly we are now even hearing the "b" word relative to damages, as in over a billion dollars in injury to Norway spruces and other plants nationwide. Litigation looms. We are now all looking at how this happened and the answers to questions that will allow us to learn from this episode. Was it a perfect storm of unanticipated movement of the chemical in runoff water due to the flooding caused by many major storms this spring? Can science better test prior to registration the potential for this happening? What is common about the growth processes and uptake potentials of the most sensitive tree species that resulted in such differential damage? What is the nature of this particular chemistry that made the industry vulnerable to this problem? How can we prove through residue analysis whether Imprelis damage caused problems on a particular tree? What is the prognosis for affected trees?<br />
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The tough truth is that it takes time to answer these questions, including one key bottom line of what to do now with affected trees. Clearly there is a range of injury to trees and many will recover. Others were badly affected and will not recover. Others will survive, but with the extent of damage may be "horticulturally dead" in that after pruning out damaged branches will no longer serve the ornamental or windbreak function desired by the customer. Getting rid of the chemical quickly in the soil is problematical. Early on, some companies tried to water extensively to try to leach the chemical out of the root zone. At least in some cases this resulted in greater damage as this presumably resulted in moving chemical to other roots. The chemical is not particularly short-lived. DuPont has advised not replanting into the site of a removed tree until October where Imprelis was applied prior to June of this year, not replanting until November if applications were made in June. <br />
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One thing is certain: communicate with affected customers and your connections in the green industry and with DuPont and insurers. Sustain that communication. Take pictures of the damage sequentially. Hone your diagnostic skills. Many cases of white pine weevil insect damage and Diplodia tip blight fungal disease and long-term root health problems on spruce and pine were misdiagnosed as Imprelis damage this season. Monitor plant development this fall and next spring as you consider whether or not trees must be pruned or replaced. <br />
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To learn more, here is one good reference for starters: <br />
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<a href="http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/">"A Turf Professional's Guide to Suspected Imprelis Herbicide Injury in Your Landscape"</a> <br />
Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-38829832924810880372011-08-26T12:01:00.000-04:002011-09-04T12:06:23.858-04:00What do farmers know that we ignore?When meeting with homeowners I often hear how frustrated they are with their lawns. They might be happy with their perennial or garden beds, but their lawn is just such a disappointment no matter the products they spread. The choice of installing a new lawn is always an option, but it’s expensive and often not a comfortable solution. What then is a homeowner to do?<br />
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I think it’s helpful to consider your home landscape like a farmer’s field. Consider what the farmer does in his fields that would also be useful for us to consider in our own lawns. When you consider that we rake all the leaves, clippings and other lawn debris to the curb for our local municipality to pick up and haul away to compost elsewhere (and sell back to us so we can topdress and mulch our gardens and flower beds) – our lawns have no organic matter that is being returned to them. In Mother Nature the natural life cycle involves dead plants decomposing and returning nutrients and organic matter to the soil maintaining a healthy soil composition. <br />
For centuries farmers have tilled (aerated) their soil and spread manure and other organic materials to improve the soil health. We add soil to our gardens and beds before planting flowers and other plants and the root systems thrive. What then are we doing for our lawns to improve the soil health? <br />
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Top-dressing your home lawn with compost is similar to what a farmer does by spreading manure in his field. Adding compost to your lawn at least once per year in conjunction with aerating will being to return the organic matter to the soil and improve soil composition over time. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg836ar-n1K97C9WN9L_FtrQ3wjbOdU6g86JVlBAxrkdSdFE3-HbeR6-8oDdd3hD6MTGWVmTC066b3m9lWgLKbkypU-aH6bT95GQzbzEsCbfBoSlMdAuprzDN8zTuVuRLwE1Pwdwc2NdTkn/s1600/DGF+080513+066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg836ar-n1K97C9WN9L_FtrQ3wjbOdU6g86JVlBAxrkdSdFE3-HbeR6-8oDdd3hD6MTGWVmTC066b3m9lWgLKbkypU-aH6bT95GQzbzEsCbfBoSlMdAuprzDN8zTuVuRLwE1Pwdwc2NdTkn/s320/DGF+080513+066.jpg" width="320px" xaa="true" /></a></div>Yes, you can install a new lawn and bring in lots of new soil and organic matter in the short term, but eventually this organic matter will deplete and you’ll be back to just the mineral matter in your soil (sand, silt and clay). If you consider mulching your beds a necessity – why then does your lawn not receive the same consideration? <br />
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To find out more about top-dressing <a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/services/turf-care/top-dressing.asp">click here</a>. <br />
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Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-85924752448610998242010-04-27T08:21:00.000-04:002010-04-27T08:21:34.200-04:00Spring and fall are great times of year to plant trees and other landscape plants. Before digging in take time to select the right tree for the right location to ensure your planting is a success. <br />
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10 steps for planting a tree: <br />
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1. Transportation: Carefully transport your tree from the nursery by covering the canopy to avoid windburn. Do not bounce or drop the root ball to avoid damaging fragile roots. Keep the root ball moist if you’re not planting immediately. <br />
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2. Dig In: Dig your hole twice as wide as the root ball and just slightly shallower than the height of the root ball. Scuff and roughen the sides of the planting hole. Compact the bottom of the hole so the tree won’t settle lower. <br />
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3. Remove the container: Remove the plastic container from the tree before placing it in the hole, separate and loosen circling and dense roots. For balled and burlapped trees cut and remove the top of the burlap and twine away from the trunk. <br />
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4. Planting height: Find the trunk or root flare where the roots meet the trunk, generally where the trunk becomes wider before going into the soil. You may need to scrape the soil back to find the root flare if it buried inside the root ball. Set the height of the tree to be approximately ½” to 1.0” above the surrounding grade. If you must add soil to the planting hole be sure to compact it before installing the tree. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj14OPql7mpM89ddeRpPOrUmYXTd27G7lRkn6EFqhH0qpxV_u6XSYie5HVhpgxXyC9oFxgbDaX7jBEwADBJOK6sI9wBEc9sh7iAAlgO0OyAu1NOXyiiE36oojA09lC_rEvNhtalog4eEn3s/s1600/new_tree_plant_rvsd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj14OPql7mpM89ddeRpPOrUmYXTd27G7lRkn6EFqhH0qpxV_u6XSYie5HVhpgxXyC9oFxgbDaX7jBEwADBJOK6sI9wBEc9sh7iAAlgO0OyAu1NOXyiiE36oojA09lC_rEvNhtalog4eEn3s/s320/new_tree_plant_rvsd.jpg" tt="true" /></a></div>5. “Face” the tree: Orient the preferred side of the tree to a prominent viewpoint – such as a patio or window of the house. When moving the tree lift from the container or root ball and not from the trunk or branches. <br />
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6. Plumb the tree: Once the tree is in the hole ensure that it is standing upright. Adjust the root ball until the tree is plumb and then pack soil under and around the root ball to secure it. <br />
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7. Improve the soil: Improve the native clay soil in our area with soil amendments like compost or SweetPeet. Mix one part amendment to three parts native soil. <br />
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8. Backfill: Pack in the soil as you backfill around the tree by compressing the soil every few shovels of soil to remove air pockets which will help to stabilize the plant. <br />
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9. Water: Water only after back filling is completed and the soil is compacted. Create a berm around the base of the tree larger than the root ball so water is concentrated around the tree and does not run off. Water more heavily with the first watering. Then continue monitoring the tree for water, adding generally 1 gallon of water per caliper inch plus one gallon. A 2.0” tree will need three gallons of water one or two times per week depending on the season and soil conditions. <br />
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10. Mulch: Cover the planting area with 1.5” to 2.0” of bark mulch, but keep it away from the trunk of the tree. Mulch moderates the soil temperature, helps to maintain moisture, reduces weed growth and prevents a hard crust from occurring on the soil which prevents water from getting into the soil. <br />
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Before you plant a tree know where your utilities are located. Call Ohio Utility Protection Service (OUPS) at 8-1-1 or (800) 362-2764 at least 48 hours before digging to have utility lines marked. <br />
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Visit <a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/">http://www.lawnlad.com/</a> , <a href="http://www.treesaregood.com/">http://www.treesaregood.com/</a> or <a href="http://www.arborday.org/">http://www.arborday.org/</a> for more information.Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-80271460499970702442010-04-17T17:47:00.000-04:002010-04-17T17:47:42.951-04:00Hardscaping in the Heights<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNK9_1oYvpOtaZqXl9yNrXN_wMSuDi2O_h8jdz_9-XLy4RXaHtYjIyCipOY2sBM7bCvNCs2Y8b_50_eG8XwO54Ayf3MtcljFVEbIg8xWcZHD-RNxY8wtXS2z3aUAzN0Ps131rm7bJJjNCU/s1600/Water-Lighting+Feature+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNK9_1oYvpOtaZqXl9yNrXN_wMSuDi2O_h8jdz_9-XLy4RXaHtYjIyCipOY2sBM7bCvNCs2Y8b_50_eG8XwO54Ayf3MtcljFVEbIg8xWcZHD-RNxY8wtXS2z3aUAzN0Ps131rm7bJJjNCU/s320/Water-Lighting+Feature+04.jpg" wt="true" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many homes in the Cleveland Heights and Shaker Heights area are now will be soon a century old. Many of the older landscape designs do not mesh with the lifestyles of today’s families. Updating your yard and garden can be accomplished in “extreme make-over” fashion or can be tackled in more modest increments. The foundation of any well conceived and executed design is a functionally and aesthetically pleasing hardscpe. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hardscape is an integral part of a landscape and can range from a couple of strategically placed boulders to fire places and outdoor kitchens with grills, sinks, cabinets and refrigerators. Hardscape in the landscape industry is the use of stone, brick or concrete (hard material) products incorporated into landscape to help the environment feel more natural or to create more living space.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hardscape, or "hardscaping" consists of the inanimate elements of landscaping, especially any masonry work or woodwork. For instance, stone walls, concrete or brick patios, tile paths, wooden decks and wooden arbors would all be considered part of the hardscape. But by extension, anything used in landscaping that is not part of the softscape can be considered a hardscape element, including home accents such as water fountains and, yes, even pink flamingoes! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Patios are a great way to entertain guest or just relax by yourself with your favorite beverage. Your project is a reflection of your priorities, lifestyle and values. Your back yard paradise does not have to be featured on the cover of Home and Garden or MTV’s Cribs to enjoy a built in fire place, landscape lighting or other amenities that integrate your yard and gardens with how you want to live in your home. Installation methods have improved over the years making hardscape installations more economical for home owners. A common misconception is that you need specialty trades people to build a fire place, fire pit, or built in grill. Many of these amenities can be installed from kits providing a custom look and can cost effectively be installed by a professional or a very skilled DIY’er. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To begin the conversation about how we can make your yard the envy of the neighborhood – call (216) 371-1935. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[<span style="color: red;">Special internet offer:</span> <strong>Receive $100.00 off</strong> landscape design consultation services when you mention code LLB0410]</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Written by: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Drew Cobb</span> <br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Lawn Lad, Inc. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Design/Build Supervisor</span> <br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="mailto:Drew@lawnlad.com">Drew@lawnlad.com</a> </span>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-54898612378924241202010-04-12T12:54:00.002-04:002010-04-12T12:57:03.526-04:00Lawn care in Cleveland Heights & Shaker Heights reflects our lifestyle<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our yards and gardens are reflections of our personalities lifestyles and beliefs. When I drive through different communities, both local and afar, I find it interesting to note how lawns are cared for and the role they play in peoples’ lives. Locally I’ve either worked on or visited thousands of lawns over the last twenty odd years and I’ve seen the range from neglected pastures to manicured trophies. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It ‘s funny how the importance of a healthy, functional lawn became a greater priority to me once we put up a swing set for my son. I suppose it’s only natural that as we go through life stages our lawns shift in accordance with these priorities.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When I get called out to visit a homeowner about their lawn, it’s not surprising anymore when I hear they don’t mind the weeds. Growing up in Cleveland Heights and working for many of my neighbors I learned at an early age that a “weed” in one person’s garden is welcome in another. A weed can quite simply be defined as a plant out of place. Whether we choose to accept or reject these plants in our yards and gardens is a personal choice. What most people want, like me, is a healthy lawn. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Weeds, or other pests, in and of themselves are not necessarily unhealthy for the lawn. The problem becomes when weeds, or pests, take over in greater quantity than is acceptable for the homeowner and either the lawn becomes unsightly in their opinion or even worse potentially unhealthy for the turf because the weeds compete for the same available water and nutrients. </span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCEQvW1Sm-GgudHl_S-ZzpdkQM9R6Lhjn9JCrb5PDwNzGXRphMXPo71PNyglMonWIm93PHt503iltNk2CYLYy09QSDH4feP5G5H8-HIFSBvHXzaTtJ7ToYvVw7yQR8928QMrG1Ec8dv7wF/s1600/Top+dressing+in+action+090518+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCEQvW1Sm-GgudHl_S-ZzpdkQM9R6Lhjn9JCrb5PDwNzGXRphMXPo71PNyglMonWIm93PHt503iltNk2CYLYy09QSDH4feP5G5H8-HIFSBvHXzaTtJ7ToYvVw7yQR8928QMrG1Ec8dv7wF/s320/Top+dressing+in+action+090518+006.jpg" width="320" wt="true" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For those of us with lawns we can almost all agree that we want a healthy lawn. Disagreement may come in the form of how we go about creating a healthy lawn and whether or not some amount of pesticides (e.g. herbicides for weeds, insecticides for insects) will be used. Controlling pests in the name of a healthier lawn is necessary at times, but ultimately the homeowner will decide their comfort level. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Integrated Pest Management (IPM) strategies focus on long-term prevention of pests by building a healthy ecosystem, using methods that are least harmful to the environment. Pesticides are applied in such a way to pose the least possible hazard by targeting the selected pest and are only used as a last resort when other controls are inadequate. The focus is on building a healthy lawn by using all other means available, and balancing this with their tolerance for pests, their vision for the lawn and their budget. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Practically speaking achieving a healthy lawn is more about the overall management strategy and less about controlling pests. Often pesticides are thought of as the silver bullet to make a lawn healthy, when in fact they only remove the pest that is most likely present because the lawn is not healthy to begin with. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A healthy lawn comes from a blend of activities and this spring is the ideal time to get your lawn into the desired shape that meets the needs of your lifestyle. Get started with a spring clean up so the lawn can dry out and breathe. Healthy soil is the building block for your lawn. Adding and replacing organic material, like you do in your gardens with compost, is vitally important. Aerating will help to alleviate compaction and get air into the soil helping roots to grow deeper and make for a more robust and drought tolerant lawn. Proper watering, fertilizing and mowing play important roles Spot seed thin and bare areas to prevent weeds from taking over. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With the demands placed on our time it can be challenging to keep up with the needs of our lawns. Like many things in life, waiting only makes it worse. Get out early this spring and focus on the building blocks of a healthy lawn. </span>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-58663818427150872702010-03-17T10:01:00.001-04:002010-03-17T10:03:17.416-04:00Snow mold in your lawn this spring<div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"></div></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Snow mold is a fungal disease that appears in the early spring when temperatures are cool and the ground is wet - first visible when the winter snow melts. There are two types of snow mold - pink snow mold and gray snow mold. </span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Snow mold damage looks like circular patches (2"-12") of dead and matted grass - often mistaken for dead or dying patches of grass. Depending on the severity of the outbreak, the circles can grow together and become a large mass. It is not uncommon to find both gray and pink snow mold together in the same lawn. </span></div></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Pink snow mold (picture below) is distinguished by the pink color of the web-like mycelium growing on the grass surface (see picture below). While the grass is wet, the mycelium looks like cobwebs, as it matures it turns its pink or salmon color. Pink snow mold infects the crown of the plant and can cause more severe injury than gray snow mold. </span><br />
</div></div></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL9QS9Ao9eXDqisxnY_Bcnztp8mlwNaQirh0PQPC9FClhWBkd-axd-waNjBShSVupmSM78EmpnulSjAG6PGP1Mpm56cXUyUc9fckzx9eJBGNPkzzQmur5gOw4bQtfZv4QZGb-ESzTYB1jl/s1600-h/Pink+Snow+mold.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="209" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448977316745710098" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL9QS9Ao9eXDqisxnY_Bcnztp8mlwNaQirh0PQPC9FClhWBkd-axd-waNjBShSVupmSM78EmpnulSjAG6PGP1Mpm56cXUyUc9fckzx9eJBGNPkzzQmur5gOw4bQtfZv4QZGb-ESzTYB1jl/s200/Pink+Snow+mold.jpg" style="float: right; height: 209px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" width="320" /></a></div><div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Gray snow mold (picture below) is similar to pink snow mold except that its mycelium remains whitish-gray and only infects the blade of the turf grass plant. Gray snow mold is also distinguished by the presence of tiny black mycelial masses on the grass blades and leaf sheaths of infected plants which pink snow mold does not produce.</span></div></div></div></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF1UCQmHbsXVCP-Zu0G3Hkznh-KVO5QyD_R9qbNdC9y8IUtqDIwBKxl7ouWRa2s95TpjTU3j9qhKTFagN5mVwoz6pWep-F8LCv1xzm_1kFpGfehcblQC2VRBqZkDQ-Vwz01RrEFZniHd90/s1600-h/100310+003.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="240" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448978030675556850" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF1UCQmHbsXVCP-Zu0G3Hkznh-KVO5QyD_R9qbNdC9y8IUtqDIwBKxl7ouWRa2s95TpjTU3j9qhKTFagN5mVwoz6pWep-F8LCv1xzm_1kFpGfehcblQC2VRBqZkDQ-Vwz01RrEFZniHd90/s320/100310+003.jpg" style="float: right; height: 240px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><strong>The cause of snow mold:</strong><br />
Snow mold can occur even when there is no snow, however, it is generally more severe when snow increases the amount of moisture, reduces sunlight and prevents the lawn from drying out. Thicker layers of leaves can have a similar impact as snow cover on the grass creating a more ideal environment for snow mold. </span></div></div></div><div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Good cultural practices will help to reduce the appearance and impact of snow mold: </span> </div></div><ul style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><li style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizers in the fall</span></li>
<li style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Mow the lawn in the fall until it stops growing</span></li>
<li style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Thorough fall clean up removing leaves and debris from the lawn</span></li>
<li style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Manage thatch to avoid accumulations of more than 2"</span></li>
</ul><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><strong>Repairing snow mold damage: </strong><br />
Fungicides are available for both curative and preventative treatments of snow mold. However, they are not recommended due to the temporary damage snow mold inflicts on the lawn. </span></div><br />
<span style="font-family: arial;">Even though a lawn infected with snow mold can look horrible in early spring, most snow mold damage will recover as temperatures warm and the grass begins to grow out. Once the area has dried, the infection will cease and the turf will grow out and renew itself making snow mold damage practically disappear. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: arial;">To speed the recovery process it is best to lightly rake the infected area to increase air flow to the grass and encourage drying. Some overseeding may be necessary if there is extreme damage and recovery is slower than desired. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: arial;">Written by:<br />
Eric Johns, Lawn Care Specialist<br />
Adam Perkins Sr, Landscape Industry Certified </span></div>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-89263277646855967092010-03-10T08:34:00.009-05:002010-03-10T09:15:37.061-05:00Growing Degree Days and your garden<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKFcFZJhnkuvkzwnIeTZ39tZde0pyrIBpLnTp9PYB9099_sC0O3H0colIbkj68wkcrBir9j_F_dhA7UoM0xQWM_LXPK_5J4Ct053_hx-44cSOkHtY1oINfLiDiMgOh3b_aAQDwVdKoJiQO/s1600-h/GDD+CH+3-10-10.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5447008495902468338" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 293px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKFcFZJhnkuvkzwnIeTZ39tZde0pyrIBpLnTp9PYB9099_sC0O3H0colIbkj68wkcrBir9j_F_dhA7UoM0xQWM_LXPK_5J4Ct053_hx-44cSOkHtY1oINfLiDiMgOh3b_aAQDwVdKoJiQO/s320/GDD+CH+3-10-10.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-family:arial;">Temperatures this week will remain consistently warm in the Cleveland area. The weather forecast from the National Weather Service and a consulting meteorology service we subscribe to points to a seasonably warm March. Not that we can't get a "surprise" March snowstorm, the closer we get to April the less likely it is.<br /></span><br /><div><span style="font-family:arial;">What does warm weather mean for your lawn and garden? As the temperatures warm plants will begin to come to life in your yard and garden. There is a programmed sequence that repeats itself each year. Obviously plants can't use a calendar to know when they should bloom, instead they follow their que in the sequence of flowering trees and shrubs based on Growing Degree Days (GDD). Plant phenology follows a predictable pattern each spring season, although the start of the spring season may be earlier or later based on the temperatures. This March is forecast to be more on the mild side as was last year, while March 2008 we had cold temperatures and over 30" of snow delaying spring.</span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></div></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"><div><div></div><div>At The Ohio State University OARDC <a href="http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/gdd/">Growing Degree Days and Plant Phenology </a>website you can input your zip code to see what the current GDD reading is and compare to a chart of expected plant and insect activity. </div><br /><div>While the ground is still too wet to do much work in the garden, now is the time to begin fertilizing and preparing for work in the yard. </div></span></div><br /><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><div><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNWMAxxt4g_Ts4010F0FL-d-yLIxxHUA9HCwrH3p_bT1Z0eLID-gCN_ERs33efYo94MoGhYedZGOruvLfkp7uu5BEKsXjr5osRFIYbtwn0LOhaPHySJ5h9t4aMrqSGTnHlWQcNUkpF7QxJ/s1600-h/GDD+CH+3-10-10.JPG"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNWMAxxt4g_Ts4010F0FL-d-yLIxxHUA9HCwrH3p_bT1Z0eLID-gCN_ERs33efYo94MoGhYedZGOruvLfkp7uu5BEKsXjr5osRFIYbtwn0LOhaPHySJ5h9t4aMrqSGTnHlWQcNUkpF7QxJ/s1600-h/GDD+CH+3-10-10.JPG"></a><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></span></div></div>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-62278191892023182682010-02-19T18:51:00.005-05:002010-02-19T20:23:03.233-05:00Dormant pruning improves plant health<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgATMj4t35fEUIZ-AsM7K6Sq13lqEkMCNS2wZDDVk0N6yb5FXNwT6INcRmWE1Rki0ufRW5Eu78ZD0xi38DktpxsK0z6-xSmSc1JJ-DsD-yKWF2kwkZU0Sk0XGl48UiV9_SMps27b9GLlD65/s1600-h/Dorment+Prunning+081223+048.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440107080851852434" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgATMj4t35fEUIZ-AsM7K6Sq13lqEkMCNS2wZDDVk0N6yb5FXNwT6INcRmWE1Rki0ufRW5Eu78ZD0xi38DktpxsK0z6-xSmSc1JJ-DsD-yKWF2kwkZU0Sk0XGl48UiV9_SMps27b9GLlD65/s320/Dorment+Prunning+081223+048.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:arial;">It certainly is refreshing to have sunny days after so many days of snowy weather. Now is a great time to get out into the garden to get some dormant pruning done before spring arrives. Your plants will thank you.</span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">Pruning your ornamental bushes, shrubs and small trees this time of year is beneficial for many reasons. Once plants leaf out it becomes more difficult to see the shape and structure of the plant. With bare plants it is much easier to see the dead, diseased and damaged wood to be removed and identify good structural and corrective pruning cuts. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">Dormant pruning will redirect growth to create a more natural looking plant while revitalizing the plant by directing new growth to healthier branches. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">You can learn more about dormant pruning from the </span><span style="font-family:Arial;">Heights Observer article <a href="http://www.heightsobserver.org/read/2/2/improve-plant-health-with-dormant-pruning">here</a>. </span><br /><a href="http://www.heightsobserver.org/read/2/2/improve-plant-health-with-dormant-pruning"></a><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-47516924293392599992010-02-10T18:14:00.000-05:002010-02-19T19:20:25.036-05:00Save the Date: NCSL plant sale<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtj8dJO7GTKh3B5k2gBbMoUGnRUXisH2plzQgc80rnC7VPr6-cenxi4UlIWyIOOka0x2MKR0nsPlJk8aowgLJeqUIPeVbX3QQgz_itL9TczPFWXRl9ex0gqdPDAzidCQnRN4kOKeysPL-3/s1600-h/3524014496_c4035e97b6.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440105379059619010" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtj8dJO7GTKh3B5k2gBbMoUGnRUXisH2plzQgc80rnC7VPr6-cenxi4UlIWyIOOka0x2MKR0nsPlJk8aowgLJeqUIPeVbX3QQgz_itL9TczPFWXRl9ex0gqdPDAzidCQnRN4kOKeysPL-3/s320/3524014496_c4035e97b6.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><span style="font-family:arial;">The Nature Center at Shaker Lakes will be having their annual plant sale on Saturday May 15, 2010. (<a href="http://www.shakerlakes.org/">http://www.shakerlakes.org/</a>)</span></div><div> </div><div><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><div></div><div><span style="font-family:arial;">Come join the plant sale to help support the mission of the Nature Center - connecting people with Nature!</span></div><div><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-66657070705795855442009-05-27T07:15:00.002-04:002009-05-27T07:42:10.759-04:00Is this a challenging econonmy?<span style="font-family:arial;">I certainly can't say that we have not been impacted by the down-turn in the economy. We have been both by customers who have had to suspend their service until they find employment again and by those customers who have trimmed back on the amount of service they receive as they look to tighten their personal budgets. Many would find this disheartening and would become discouraged. Maybe it's my entrepreneurial spirit that doesn't accept 'no' as an answer that keeps me pushing forward and seeing this period of time a wonderful opportunity. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">There are many homeowners who want to hire a professional landscape company for a project or some assistance with their maintenance but don't know where to turn. We have heard more stories this year from homeowners about bad experiences with so called "landscapers" that turned out to be little more than a couple of guys with a lawn mower and wheelbarrow. We have heard time and again how they hired a particular person or company and had hoped for the best and ultimately were disappointed by the experience and outcome. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">Some have told me this spring that they thought they could save money by hiring the one or two guy outfit, even though they knew they were taking a risk. They decided afterwards that professionalism does matter and it often saves them time, money and unnecessary frustration. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">When I'm on sales calls I am always looking for ways to help the customer maximize their budget and get the best value. I will even recommend that the small guy be brought in at certain points based on the owner's needs and priorities. I learned a long time ago where we fit well into the equation and where we should defer to someone else. We are not interested in doing anything for anybody, but rather serving our customers where we know we can provide results and value. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">I'm proud of our team this spring - they are working long hours to make sure that our current customers are pleased with the service they are receiving. They are also working hard to develop and build new relationships in the neighborhoods where we already work. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">I am excited every time I am able to give one of our current customers a $50 service credit on their account as a result of their referral. Not only does it tell me that they are happy enough with our service that they would refer us to a friend or neighbor, but it is also good for the customer because they have saved on their landscape cost. Our <a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/about/refer-a-friend.asp">referral program</a> has introduced us to many people and I'm thankful for these new relationships. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">Tough economic times many will ask? Not for us - I reply, it's an exciting and rewarding time to be in business. It's fundamentals really. Listen to your customer, offer them options, provide consultation, deliver on your promises and follow through. We're certainly not batting 100% this spring, but we're working hard to make sure that each person gets what they need. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">Thank you to our customers for making this a great spring and an inspiring time to be in business. </span>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-45157624902672032602009-05-20T07:09:00.000-04:002009-05-27T07:15:19.984-04:00Will your lawn survive the summer heat?<p><span style="font-family:arial;">Here are some tips for growing and keeping a healthy lawn. </span></p><p><span style="font-family:arial;">Mowing tips</span></p><span style="font-family:arial;"><ol><li></span><span style="font-family:arial;">Mow the grass tall, at least 3 inches, but 3 ½”. The taller the better. Longer leaf blades collect more sunlight for increased photosynthesis, which is how the plant creates food for itself. More food means more energy and stronger grass plants and healthier roots. Tall grass shades the soil, keeping it cooler and minimizes sunlight that weed seeds need to germinate. </span></li><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Cut shady lawn areas less frequently, allowing the grass to grow taller so it can capture more sunlight. </span></li><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Sharpen your lawn mower blade before summer heat, and again in late summer for best results, or any time you run over sticks or rocks. </span></li><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Change the direction of travel with each mowing to help stand the grass up. </span></li><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Mulch the grass clippings back into the lawn. Rake out clumps of clippings. Clippings are more than 80% water and they will return nutrients and water to the lawn. Clippings do not contribute to the build of thatch. </span></li></ol><p><span style="font-family:arial;">Watering tips<br /></span><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></p><ol><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Measure the amount of water your sprinkler delivers by setting out some cake or pin pans. Measure the water collected in the tins on a level surface after ½ hour to determine how much total time is required to deliver one inch of water each week. </span></li><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Supplement rain fall as needed to make sure your lawn receives at least one inch of water per week. </span></li><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Break up the watering into several sessions, watering for as long as possible without allowing the water to puddle. When puddles form the soil is saturated and can not absorb any more water and water is being wasted. If you have watered less than one inch you will need to water again. </span></li></ol><p><span style="font-family:arial;">Other tips</span></p><ol><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Clean up leaves, sticks and other plant litter before mowing. Plant litter and debris may contribute to excessive thatch build up and should not be left on the lawn. Mowing over sticks and other debris will dull your mower blades more quickly. </span></li><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Do not leave hoses, children’s swimming pools or other items on the lawn for an extended period of time. Hot plastic items will heat up and bake the lawn creating dead spots. </span></li><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Fertilize the lawn with either traditional or organic products to deliver the equivalent of four pounds of nitrogen per thousand square feet for the season. Break up the fertilizer into four or five applications. Reduce the amount of fertilizer you apply in shady lawn areas by half or two-thirds. </span></li><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Avoid aerating and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">de</span>-thatching the lawn when dry and hot. Wait until cooler temperatures return this fall, or if you must do it now then water the lawn thoroughly. </span></li></ol><p><span style="font-family:arial;">It is easier to keep a lawn green and healthy than it is to make a lawn green and healthy. Follow these tips to avoid having to repair or renovate your lawn this fall. </span></p>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-61539613946114917882009-04-07T11:26:00.000-04:002009-04-07T17:32:59.437-04:00Top five healthy lawn building activities this spring!<span style="font-family:arial;">Ahh yes, springtime - lush lawns and gorgeous gardens. Your spring clean up is a vital first step to good lawn health. Removing all of the leaves, sticks, nuts and other debris out of the lawn will help the grass to breathe. Once you've raked over the yard take the next steps to build a healthy lawn which is the best defense against pest related problems and will reduce the need for pesticides. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Top five healthy lawn building activities this spring: </span><br /><br /><ol><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Aeration: Lawn aeration is the mechanical process of removing soil cores from the lawn. The holes open up the soil and allow the roots to get more oxygen and make fertilizing, watering and other lawn applications more effective. Aerating helps to build stronger roots making your lawn more drought and pest resistant. You can aerate from mid-April to late May when the soil is moist. </span></li><br /><li><span style="font-family:arial;">De-thatching: Some thatch is good, but more than ½” of thatch diminishes the effectiveness of watering and lawn applications. Most heavy lawn renovations involve extensive work to remove or aggressively managing thatch. De-thatch or verti-cut your lawn to remove some of this thatch on a regular basis and your lawn will be grateful. You may need to spot seed afterwards so de-thatching earlier if possible by end of April will give your new seed a chance to germinate and grow in before summertime heat arrives. </span></li><br /><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Fertilizing: Nutrients are essential for lawn health. There are organic or traditional fertilizer products that will deliver the proper amount of nutrients to your lawn. Consistent application of fertilizer in the right amount is critical to the long term health of the grass. Get your first application of product down early, before the forsythia blooms drop. Plan on four to five applications through the season, timed generally about five to eight weeks apart with the major holidays. Your second application falls on Memorial Day, third around Independence Day, fourth on or about Labor Day and your fifth and last application prior to Thanksgiving. The products will change based on the application and the current weather – so consult with a professional service provider or someone knowledgeable at the local garden center. </span></li><br /><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Add Organics: Build soil health by applying or top dressing your lawn with organic material. Products like Milorganite, leaf compost and SweetPeet are all good ways to get organic material into the lawn. Organics will help to break down thatch and will improve the soil composition and structure and ultimately improve the health of the soil by creating a better environment for microbial activity which is vital to the health of your lawn. </span></li><br /><li><span style="font-family:arial;">Spot seed: Thin or bare areas should be spot seeded to prevent weeds from getting a foot hold in your lawn. For best results the new seed needs to be in contact with the soil. Either scratch the surface of the soil, top dress with new soil and seed or aerate the lawn twice and then spot seed thin and bare areas. New seed will not begin to germinate until soil and air temperatures are over 50 degrees, even so early spring seeding now is okay as the spring rains will begin to prepare the seed and make it ready to pop when the temperatures warm. </span></li></ol><p><span style="font-family:arial;">Spring is the ideal time to get your lawn in shape for the season. The combination of these activities will be sure to improve your lawn and get it ready for the summer season. For additional free information about lawn renovation activities email: </span><a href="mailto:info@lawnlad.com"><span style="font-family:arial;">info@lawnlad.com</span></a><span style="font-family:arial;"> with “Lawn renovation” in the subject line. </span></p>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-37849200460795315942009-03-25T22:27:00.001-04:002009-03-27T11:31:30.366-04:00Thank you for your thoughts...<span style="font-family:arial;">This past several weeks I was in touch with about a dozen or so of our customers and had the opportunity to talk with them about a referral program we were developing. I appreciate that my customers were willing to give me feedback on some ideas we had and how we could improve our business and the referral process that we were discussing. Their insight helped to refine the program which is now posted here: <a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/referral">www.lawnlad.com/referral</a> </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">What was most touching to me were the expressions of sincere care and concern that our customers have for our business and the team members who work at Lawn Lad. I was certainly warmed by their outward desire to help us become a better company. We all recognize the uncertain economic times that we are in and it was clear that our customers want us<span style="font-family:arial;"> to succeed. </span></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">An unintended benefit of these conversations for me was getting to hear about the instances when our crews have made a positive impact on the lives of our customers. I was also able to hear about instances where we could have improved or done something differently that would have been more positive. All of the feedback was very much appreciated and very valuable to me. So, thank you to each of you who made the time in your busy schedules to share your thoughts and opinions with me. </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">I am very fortunate to have customers who care about us as much as we care about them. We are working hard every day to improve our business and grow better relationships with our customers and the Heights-area community. </span><span style="font-family:arial;">It is because of customers like you that we have continued to serve the Heights area for 30 years. Thank you again for your continued business, we look forward to working with you again this year. </span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">Sincerely yours,</span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">Douglas Freer</span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;">President</span>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-64346319750292941092009-03-06T10:33:00.004-05:002009-03-06T11:04:22.198-05:00Top five priorities for the yard this springWarm spring like weather sure is welcome after the cold and snowy months of January and February. With thoughts turning to spring now is a great time to get started early in the yard.<br /><br />My top five priorities for the yard this spring include:<br /><br /><ol><li><strong><a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/services/landscape-management/seasonal-cleanup.asp">Clean-up:</a></strong> While not generally overlooked I do see people delaying clean up which makes the clean-up work more difficult. Get to the leaves, sticks and general debris early while all the plants are still dormant, including bulbs and perennials. Bed clean up is a snap now while the weather is cooperative. </li><li><strong><a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/services/landscape-management/dormant-pruning.asp">Pruning:</a></strong> The benefits of dormant pruning<a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/services/landscape-management/dormant-pruning.asp"> </a>are numerous and I've written about them previously. Pruning "naked" plants now allows you to see more clearly what you're working on. Pruning before buds break will direct the plants energy into remaining plant parts creating a healthier. Now is your chance to do this work - don't miss out on this limited window of opportunity. </li><li><a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/services/landscape-management/mulch-and-soil-amendments.asp"><strong>Focus on the soil</strong>:</a> Our urban landscapes contradict the natural cycles in nature. We rake up our leaves and other yard clippings and debris and deposit them on the curb for the city to scoop up and hall away. Yes, the city recycles the yard debris to create compost and leaf humus. But this natural cycle of decomposition is not happening in our own yards, and practically speaking I'm okay with having a neat, clean yard so I do the same thing. But what we must do then is replenish the organic matter by adding compost back to our bed and lawn areas. Organics like <a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/services/sweetpeet/">SweetPeet</a>, leaf humus and compost contribute to a healthy, productive and active soil that allows plants to grow strong and healthy requiring fewer pesticides and fertilizers to keep things looking good. Focus on the health of your soil and it will pay dividends in the long run. </li><li><a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/services/turf-care/fertilizing.asp"><strong>Nutrients:</strong> </a>Fertilizing this time of year before the spring growth is an ideal time to provide necessary nutrients to your lawn and plants. Your landscape plants and trees require different fertilizers from your lawn. In a tight economy people have a tendency to pull back on fertilizing because its an area they feel they can do without and you will not see the immediate results. My recommendation would be to adjust your program but do not eliminate it if you're looking for ways to cut back. The neglected lawn will cost more to renovate down the road then what you will pay now to maintain it. </li><li><strong><a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/services/lawn-renovation/">Seeding:</a></strong> It is still too cold to grow grass seed - but now is a great time to plant grass seed particularly when repairing damaged lawn areas. Rye and fescue normally take about 7 to 10 days and blue grass takes about 30 days to germinate in normal growing conditions. Putting the seed down early with good seed to soil contact now will get even the blue grass to germinate sooner than normal when the soil and air temperatures are consistently above 51 F degrees. When the warmer spring temperatures are here for good the new seed will pop up if we've had sufficient rain and snow fall. Less watering and quicker germination - can't beat it. Two drawbacks - A) seed left on the surface of the soil may wash out with heavy rains and you may need to seed again. B) Do not apply typical crabgrass pre-emergent control products with your first round of fertilizing or you will prevent your new seed from growing as well. You will need to use a product like Tupersan if you want to both spot seed and prevent crabgrass. </li></ol><p>Get out into the yard and get going. There is nothing quite like a fresh, clean and neat looking yard to welcome spring. </p>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-62944353322160620112009-02-18T17:45:00.003-05:002009-02-18T17:47:30.493-05:00Taking the pain out of hiring a home improvement contractorSpring time means home improvements and yard projects, which may mean hiring a contractor to help out. Deciding to hire a contractor can cause fear, anxiety and increase stress. Who can you trust to do a good job, stand behind their work and do it at a fair price? If you understand how to hire a contractor and do a little homework you will dramatically increase your odds for a positive outcome. <br /><br />The process of hiring a contractor for a project varies on the type and scope of work as well, as the budget. With a deepening recession, homeowners will likely see more offers from individuals and companies they may not have heard of before as unemployed or laid off workers start entrepreneurial ventures with the hopes of making ends meet. Don’t rule out the newer contractors who may be qualified for your job, but there are other risks to consider. Taking the time to select a reputable and professional contractor may save you time, money and wasted emotional energy. <br /><br />Three key points to consider when hiring a contractor:<br /><br /><ol><li>Use your gut instinct in determining if you like the personality, style and professionalism of the person or company that you are considering. Feeling like a good fit is the first criteria – but is not the only one. Dig deeper and go beyond your gut instinct before you enter a business relationship that has financial consequences. Be sure to interview at least two or three contractors and get several quotes. Be leery of claims from contractors that simply state they can do the same job for a lot less. </li><li>Does the contractor carry the proper insurance including both general liability and Workers’ Compensation coverage? Business insurance is one way to help legitimize a company. Most importantly it provides essential protection for the homeowner from certain liabilities. <br /> - General liability coverage protects the homeowner should an accident occur and there is property damage or a personal injury. It also increases the chance of recovering any claims should a law suit be necessary from a project that fails to perform. <br />- Workers’ Compensation coverage provides the employee of a company with coverage in the event of an injury while working. If a worker for the contractor is injured on the owner’s property and the contractor does not have Workers’ Comp coverage, the homeowner may be at an increased risk regardless if they are negligent in causing the accident or injury. An injured worker who does not have Workers’ Comp coverage through the contractor may have expenses that they seek to recover and the homeowner’s policy may not provide coverage leaving the homeowner exposed to the liability. Workers paid under the table or paid as “contractors” but are really considered employees by the IRS are not then covered by Workers’ Compensation coverage. </li><li>Does the contractor put their quote or bid in writing? Verbal agreements are the root cause for many problems between contractors and homeowners. A written agreement, or contract, should detail the scope of service, timeframe for the job, agreed upon price and the terms. A fixed cost contract prevents escalating costs that are common in time and material bids. Change orders to the original agreement and warranties should also be in writing to minimize forgotten commitments. </li></ol><p>In a depressed economy homeowners can’t afford to gamble unnecessarily. For a free list of tips on how to safely select a contractor and what questions to ask – email <a href="mailto:info@lawnlad.com">info@lawnlad.com</a> </p>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-78468578383159320712009-01-05T17:39:00.001-05:002009-02-18T17:44:33.081-05:00Improve plant health with winter pruningBurrrr… who in their right mind would venture into the cold and snowy weather this time of year to work in their yard? The brave souls that don their long johns, scarves and parkas to do some dormant pruning will be rewarded with healthier landscape plants and less work in the long run. <br /><br />Many people fear damaging plants and avoid pruning all together. Being a bit leery is wise, but with a little knowledge and practice, anyone can prune properly and should look forward to positive results. Pruning is the removal of plant parts to improve plant health. Do remove dead, diseased or damaged plant material at any time – there is no time like the present to remove damaged plant parts which may only cause long term problems. <br /><br />Starting with the basics - there are three main types of pruning. Corrective pruning redirects growth to achieve a desired shape and a more natural looking plant. Preventative pruning removes dead, diseased or damaged plant material, as well as problematic branches such as those overhanging walkways or growing into buildings and homes. Rejuvenating pruning is done by heading back heavy growth and thinning crowded older plants to encourage new growth.<br /><br />Specifically, dormant pruning benefits ornamental plants and trees by removing unhealthy or excessive growth and deadwood, and by improving the natural branching characteristic of the plant. It is a combination of the different types of pruning listed above. The best timing for structural, rejuvenating, or corrective pruning is late January through early March when the plant is inactive. So grab your hat, gloves and tools and let’s get busy. <br /><br />Proper Pruning Tools & Tips<br /><ul><li>Use bypass pruners and loppers (Use anvil style pruners only on dead wood)</li><li>Use the proper sized tool for the job – pruners for small finger sized branches, loppers for thumb sized and larger branches and saws for bigger branches and limbs</li><li>Keep equipment clean, sharp and rust free</li><li>Get a holster to store tools so they don’t get lost and avoid contact with the wet groun</li></ul><p>Dormant pruning helps to maintain a plant’s size in a limited space, and it revitalizes older, woody plants. Plants pruned during dormancy become healthier in spring as the plants energy is directed to fewer remaining branches which is supported by the same root mass. The increased energy transferred to healthier remaining stems and branches grows a more prolific and healthy plant. <br /><br />Dormant pruning reduces headaches during summer pruning work. Keep in mind that pruning actually encourages growth. For those plants that are sheared in summer months like the common privet hedge, new growth rapidly appears with twice the growth output. This is what causes the outer portion of the plant to become so woody – and darn tough to cut back after years of shearing. Selectively removing some of the excessive woodiness will help to redirect plant growth helping the plant to fill in thin and bare areas. <br /><br />Before starting, have a vision for what your pruning will accomplish so you are careful to prune the correct way to achieve your goals. When pruning, follow these steps in order: 1) Remove dead, diseased and damaged wood from the plant. 2) Clear building structures, paths and driveways of obstructing plants 3) Remove any crossing or rubbing branches that might cause future injury. 4) Thin and head back according to the plant’s natural growing characteristics. Thinning prevents ornamentals from becoming top heavy and more susceptible to winter snow damage and it encourages the plant to fill in the lower areas with new growth.<br /><br />Before pruning, determine what the plant can handle – which requires knowing what plant you’re working on and its growing habit. Some plants need to be pruned gingerly, while others benefit from a vigorous pruning. In general, it is best not to prune more than a third or quarter of any ornamental or tree, and in many cases removing a fifth of the plant is more appropriate. Rejuvenating pruning usually involves a three- to five-year pruning plan.<br /><br />Pruning in late fall or early winter should be avoided. Soil temperatures are still warm and the plant is still actively transferring its energy stored in the canopy to the root system. Pruning late fall robs the plant of vital stored energy potentially weakening the plant. Heavy fall pruning is not advised because it may encourage new growth that may not have time to harden off before cold weather sets in, potentially causing frost damage to the new growth. One major exception to late winter pruning is spring flowering ornamentals (e.g. lilac, forsythia, viburnum), which are best pruned after they flower and before they form flower buds for the following year.<br /><br />To learn more about proper pruning techniques – email <a href="mailto:info@lawnlad.com">info@lawnlad.com</a> to receive a free copy of Pruning Landscape Plants - OSU Cooperative Extension Service Bulletin #543</p>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6533356248479188146.post-65068407125181450322008-10-26T13:35:00.001-04:002008-10-26T13:38:04.697-04:00Close up your yard for winterA wintery blanket of snow and ice will cover our yards very soon. Now is the time to run through the check list of fall yard maintenance items before it is too late. <br /><br /><ul><li>Remove leaves and sticks from garden beds, lawns and other areas of the yard</li><li>Remove annuals and other seasonal plants</li><li>Cut down perennials after several killing frosts. </li><li>Divide perennials and remove unwanted plants from the garden.</li><li>Mulch around the base of tender perennials and plants that need extra insulation during the winter. Mulch beds with compost, leaf humus or Sweet Peet. </li><li>Dig and store tender perennials, tubers and summer bulbs</li><li>Cut the lawn up until the air temperatures are consistently below 50 degrees F. Don’t leave the lawn tall going into winter. </li><li>Apply the last round of lawn fertilizer when temperatures are below 50 degrees F, this will help root development and prepare the grass for spring growth</li><li>Plant spring flowering bulbs before the ground freezes</li><li>Turn off in-ground irrigation systems, drain and blow out the system</li><li>Drain and winterize water features. Empty bird baths, clean and store<br />Empty clay pots, store in covered and/or dry location for winter</li><li>Stop feeding the fish in the water features</li><li>Clean out catch basins, drains and window wells (better now then when they’re backed up!)</li><li>Re-edge garden beds, this will make it easier in the spring to reestablish the edges</li><li>Water plants one last time before coiling up the hoses, particularly evergreen plants (rhododendron, holly, azaleas, conifers, etc.)</li><li>Spray anti-desiccant on plants, particularly broadleaved evergreens that are exposed to winter winds. </li><li>Inspect outdoor lighting, replace bulbs as needed. Adjust timer as necessary.<br />Stack fire wood up off the ground, cover with a tarp to keep dry. </li><li>Prune plants now only for clearance along driveways, walks and buildings or to remove any damaged or diseased plant parts – hold off on major pruning until late winter and early spring. </li></ul><p>Good sanitation is important to maintaining a healthy landscape. By cleaning up leaves and dead plant parts you will minimize the potential for recurring disease issues. A clean landscape also minimizes places that rodents and other pests can hide. </p><p>Click <a href="http://www.lawnlad.com/learningcenter/aftercare.asp">here</a> for comprehensive season by season check list of lawn and garden to-do’s. </p>Doug Freerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11718128988908253124noreply@blogger.com0